Filed under: Textile Fabric
Question:
On 15 Feb 2004 12:10:40 -0800, gamma_n…@yahoo.com (Virgo Cluster) wrote: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->kitzneg…@aol.com (kitznegari thinks it has wings) wrote in message ><news:20040215093147.21861.00001710@mb-m14.aol.com>… >> that’s a HORRIBLE present. what the hell was she thinking? >Huh? We both thought it was hilarious. I guess she was thinking >about all the sex-starved guys in this group that I seem to be >spending so much time with. >> are you two about to get a divorce or something? >No, not at all! I think this is one of those situations where >real-life personalities aren’t bridging the internet gap >very well. One of the things I got her was the Princeton >Review guide to getting a job. (She’s out of work right now.) >And before you get worried about what I got her, this is full >of charts, tables to fill out, self-tests — exactly the kind >of thing she likes. And, of course, I got her a book of house >plans, a silly greeting card, and some chewing gum. Besides the >masturbation book, she got me a pocket-sized Dilbert book ("You >Can’t Schedule Stupidity"), a silly greeting card, and "How to >Keep Dinosaurs" by Robert Mash. I think she got this last book >for herself, because she’s been reading it off and on ever since >Friday night. It’s a really funny and neat book, and the next time >you’re in a bookstore you should look at it. Even if you don’t >buy it (it’s $14.99, FYI), you’ll get a lot of laughs flipping >through it for a few minutes. >Sending cards when I’m on a trip, and our agreement about >which days of the year require gifts, which I think you >saw when I originally posted it —> >http://tinyurl.com/2eup5 [2002-08-31] >What I got my wife for her last birthday (April 2003), >which I don’t think you’ve seen —> >http://tinyurl.com/2ksbf [2003-04-06]
dat iz berry romantick. >Virgo Cluster > "[10 Lavatorial Euphemisms] (#3) > Cackatorium (England, eighteenth century)." ><< Karl Shaw, "The Mammoth Book of Tasteless > Lists", Carroll & Graf Publishers, 1998, p. 434 >>
Watch my mental breakdown as it happens. http://mspoopiepants.blogspot.com/ I’m posting…be very afraid. http://www.lolfun.com/flash_0603/funky_d.cfm Tank goodness for usenet to keep track of my major life events. "First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win." –Mahatma Gandhi You can search throughout the entire universe for someone who is more deserving of your love and affection than you are yourself, and that person is not to be found anywhere. You yourself, as much as anybody in the entire universe deserve your love and affection. Buddha
Response:
> Among the things my wife got me was "Solitary Sex: A Cultural > History of Masturbation" by Thomas W. Laqueur, MIT Press, 2003.
A book on masturbation that’s 498pps long! Surely it only needs to say one thing: "We all do it and we all enjoy it". I suppose the other 497 pages are full of pictures and diagrams.
Response:
skle…@yahoo.co.uk (sklenge) wrote in message
<news:8fad19c5.0402160647.5c09f513@posting.google.com>… > A book on masturbation that’s 498pps long! Surely it only needs > to say one thing: "We all do it and we all enjoy it". I suppose > the other 497 pages are full of pictures and diagrams.
It’s an academic book. Thomas W. Laqueur is a professor at UC-Berkeley —> Thomas W. Laqueur’s homepage http://ohst7.berkeley.edu/People/laqueur.html Here are some reviews of this book. Some of you guys (used in the gender inclusive sense) might also want to look at the list of books assembled by the Erotica Readers & Writers Association (see below). "The English Historical Review", 119 (#480), Feb. 2004, 221-223 http://www3.oup.co.uk/enghis/current/480221.sgm.abs.html http://www3.oup.co.uk/enghis/current/ "All in the Mind" (Radio National) interview (Jan. 11, 2004) http://www.abc.net.au/rn/science/mind/s996042.htm "The Guardian" (July 26, 2003) http://books.guardian.co.uk/review/story/0,12084,1005674,00.html frontlist books http://www.frontlist.com/detail/1890951323 "New York Arts Daily Newsletter" (Allan Graubard) http://nyartsmagazine.com/bbs2/messages/28.html A brief review from "Erotica Readers & Writers Association" http://www.erotica-readers.com/ERA/B-nonficti.htm http://tinyurl.com/29m56 [amazon.com reviews] Virgo Cluster (ducks away to grade some more tests) "[10 Firsts] (#2) Ronald Reagan was the first president to have his nasal polyps discussed on live TV." << Karl Shaw, "The Mammoth Book of Tasteless Lists", Carroll & Graf Publishers, 1998, p. 431 >>
Response:
> I was hoping more for a blow-job without overt payment.
Is that really in the spirit of the Valentine’s Day message of love and cuddly-snuggle-bunnydom? No ‘once in a blue moon’ is your festival day for blow-jobs.
Response:
sklenge said: >Is that really in the spirit of the Valentine’s Day message of love >and cuddly-snuggle-bunnydom? No ‘once in a blue moon’ is your festival >day for blow-jobs.
hehehe… – k i t z – i will take you to the oracle, but first i must aporogize. http://spinning_plates.tripod.com
Response:
>Among the things my wife got me was "Solitary Sex: A Cultural >History of Masturbation" by Thomas W. Laqueur, MIT Press, 2003.
that’s a HORRIBLE present. what the hell was she thinking? are you two about to get a divorce or something? – k i t z – i will take you to the oracle, but first i must aporogize. http://spinning_plates.tripod.com
Response:
kitzneg…@aol.com (kitznegari thinks it has wings) spewed forth most vilely news:20040215093222.21861.00001711@mb-m14.aol.com: > sklenge said: >>Is that really in the spirit of the Valentine’s Day message of love >>and cuddly-snuggle-bunnydom? No ‘once in a blue moon’ is your festival >>day for blow-jobs. > hehehe…
KA CHING! Hasn’t been a blue moon since the 1890’s…
Response:
kitzneg…@aol.com (kitznegari thinks it has wings) wrote in message <news:20040215093147.21861.00001710@mb-m14.aol.com>… > that’s a HORRIBLE present. what the hell was she thinking?
Huh? We both thought it was hilarious. I guess she was thinking about all the sex-starved guys in this group that I seem to be spending so much time with. > are you two about to get a divorce or something?
No, not at all! I think this is one of those situations where real-life personalities aren’t bridging the internet gap very well. One of the things I got her was the Princeton Review guide to getting a job. (She’s out of work right now.) And before you get worried about what I got her, this is full of charts, tables to fill out, self-tests — exactly the kind of thing she likes. And, of course, I got her a book of house plans, a silly greeting card, and some chewing gum. Besides the masturbation book, she got me a pocket-sized Dilbert book ("You Can’t Schedule Stupidity"), a silly greeting card, and "How to Keep Dinosaurs" by Robert Mash. I think she got this last book for herself, because she’s been reading it off and on ever since Friday night. It’s a really funny and neat book, and the next time you’re in a bookstore you should look at it. Even if you don’t buy it (it’s $14.99, FYI), you’ll get a lot of laughs flipping through it for a few minutes. Sending cards when I’m on a trip, and our agreement about which days of the year require gifts, which I think you saw when I originally posted it —> http://tinyurl.com/2eup5 [2002-08-31] What I got my wife for her last birthday (April 2003), which I don’t think you’ve seen —> http://tinyurl.com/2ksbf [2003-04-06] Virgo Cluster "[10 Lavatorial Euphemisms] (#3) Cackatorium (England, eighteenth century)." << Karl Shaw, "The Mammoth Book of Tasteless Lists", Carroll & Graf Publishers, 1998, p. 434 >>
Response:
"ImJustOne" <the.color.of.televis…@tuned.to.a.dead.channel.com> wrote in message news:fEzXb.12905$5W3.1387@nwrddc02.gnilink.net… > "sklenge" <skle…@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message > news:8fad19c5.0402141005.6391bf08@posting.google.com… > > Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. > > If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card > > today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated to > > a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day > > over-commercialization. > > So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for > > not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land. > I didn’t get anything, and didn’t give anything either. Mmmm, I suppose I > should get something for my mother.
Is it just me, or does it feel really pathetic to walk into a grocery store and buy a Valentine’s Day card for your mother? Oi!
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->"ImJustOne" <the.color.of.televis…@tuned.to.a.dead.channel.com> wrote in >message news:fEzXb.12905$5W3.1387@nwrddc02.gnilink.net… >> "sklenge" <skle…@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message >> news:8fad19c5.0402141005.6391bf08@posting.google.com… >> > Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. >> > If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card >> > today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated to >> > a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day >> > over-commercialization. >> > So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for >> > not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land. >> I didn’t get anything, and didn’t give anything either. Mmmm, I suppose I >> should get something for my mother. >Is it just me, or does it feel really pathetic to walk into a grocery store >and buy a Valentine’s Day card for your mother? Oi!
Its just a card, not a sex toy. No reason to feel really pathetic. 
Response:
kitzneg…@aol.com (kitznegari thinks it has wings) wrote in message <news:20040214185010.15185.00001182@mb-m06.aol.com>… > and lets not forget that the holiday is not quite over yet.
Among the things my wife got me was "Solitary Sex: A Cultural History of Masturbation" by Thomas W. Laqueur, MIT Press, 2003. This got me wondering if she’d been reading my posts, but she claims she hasn’t. Besides, I don’t think she would have had time to find and get such a book between yesterday morning, when I posted something about the topic, and last night, when we exchanged gifts. In the unlikely event that anyone thinks I’m making this up and they’re willing to verify the following by visiting a bookstore, here are some random quotes from this book: [p. 123, 5'th line from bottom] "If generation represents one of the deepest mysteries of the universe, then "destruction of seed" or "purposeless emission" has a range of reference outside anything that the modern Onan dreamed of." [p. 328, 6'th line from top] "But masturbation was more openly and overtly linked to the novel untamed, and more generally to the problem of delusion in art, religion, and politics." [p. 394, 6'th line from top] "Freud’s argument for the universality of infant masturbation — its inevitability, moral innocence, and developmental specificity — had an enormous impact on sexual pedagogy after 1920." Virgo Cluster "[10 Occupational Hazards] (#8) In 1994 a 24 year old Pakistani textile worker, Ahmed Bulwarj, was knitted to death when he fell head first into a factory machine used to make cotton fabric. Before his body could be retrieved it had been punctured many hundreds of times by moving knitting needles." << Karl Shaw, "The Mammoth Book of Tasteless Lists", Carroll & Graf Publishers, 1998, p. 436 >>
Response:
>Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. >If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card >today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated to >a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day >over-commercialization. >So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for >not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land.
what killed me was that since i am the receptionist at our facility i had to sign for all of the flowers that came in for all of the nurses and doctors and patients. i tried to be pleasant about it, but after about the tenth one i just wanted to rip the face off the delivery guy. i did get two ecards and a "love you" from someone that i care about too much to explain. i sent out 24 cards. it’s not about what you receive, but what you give and lets not forget that the holiday is not quite over yet. – k i t z – i will take you to the oracle, but first i must aporogize. http://spinning_plates.tripod.com
Response:
"sklenge" <skle…@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8fad19c5.0402141005.6391bf08@posting.google.com… > Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. > If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card > today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated to > a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day > over-commercialization. > So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for > not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land.
I didn’t get anything, and didn’t give anything either. Mmmm, I suppose I should get something for my mother. The holiday didn’t really have any effect on me this year. Probably due to the fact that I kept away from television and ditched work so my exposure to flowers, heart-shaped boxes, balloons, and candy was minimal. If I had a SO, I suppose I would enjoy it and think of some creative way to celebrate it. But, I’m alone, probably will be for a long time, and it is bothering me less and less.
Response:
Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated to a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day over-commercialization. So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land.
Response:
skle…@yahoo.co.uk (sklenge) spewed forth most vilely news:8fad19c5.0402141005.6391bf08@posting.google.com: > Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. > If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card > today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated to > a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day > over-commercialization. > So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for > not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land.
I was hoping more for a blow-job without overt payment.
Response:
"Dr. Carlo Lombardi" <a…@at.org> wrote in news:Xns948F6DC894F32refusetoactcom@68.6.19.6: > skle…@yahoo.co.uk (sklenge) spewed forth most vilely > news:8fad19c5.0402141005.6391bf08@posting.google.com: >> Happy Valentine’s Day to all shy people everywhere. >> If you’re anything like me you’ve probably not got a Valentine card >> today, nor received a bunch of long stemmed roses, nor been treated >> to a candle lit romantic meal. And all the usual Valentine’s day >> over-commercialization. >> So Happy Valentine’s Day to you all (me included) and well done for >> not being sucked into corporate claptrap commerce land. > I was hoping more for a blow-job without overt payment.
IOW, free?
Response:
Question:
Sodium percarbonate etc.
NOW they tell us!
Response:
WTF???
Response:
It’s great for summertime highlights for your hair! Stef – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sodium percarbonate etc. NOW they tell us!
Response:
It’s great for summertime highlights for your hair!
The pics I have of you your pussy is shaved. Besides, I thought you used sperm to decorate your hair? Chiropractors rock man! Bill R.
Response:
WTF???
Haven’t you heard? Gonna be hotter than Polars for runners. Buy stock now. — Kristofer Hogg, ms, rd HoloBarre Rehab/Fitness/Stretching Systems, Yonkers, NY to email: Remove the numeric value of pi in my address
Response:
WTF???
Reduces acidity in the pecs of lactating runneresses. Or something.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Oxygen Bleaching Chemicals Sodium percarbonate is a free-flowing powder with a common name of solid hydrogen peroxide, it is an addition compound of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. Sodium Percarbonate has an active available oxygen content which is equivalent to 27.5% H2O2. It breaks down to oxygen, water and sodium carbonate upon decomposition. Sodium Percarbonate offers many of the same functional benefits as liquid hydrogen peroxide. It dissolves into water rapidly to release oxygen and provides powerful cleaning, bleaching, stain removal and deodorizing capabilities. Sodium percarbonate has a wide range of applications in various cleaning products and detergent formulations including heavy duty laundry detergents, all fabric bleaches, wood deck bleaches, textile bleaches and carpet cleaners. Other applications have been explored in personal care formulations, denture cleaners, pulp and paper bleaching process, and certain food bleaching applications. The product also has functions as disinfector for institutional and home applications, oxygen releasing agent in aquaculture, waste water treatment chemical, first-aid oxygen generating agent, etc.
<SNIP I still can’t get over how scientific people make RUNNING. Call me an old timer, out of touch with reality, and a troll all you want but I think running should be about putting one foot in front of the other. Not about BIO-Chem. Goodman Brown President Bush wouldn’t be the head of missing persons in the Sharpton administration. He can’t find Bin Laden, we don’t know if Saddam is alive or dead, and can’t find any weapons of mass destruction. – Rev. Sharpton
Response:
It’s great for summertime highlights for your hair! Stef
Marry me i love you let’s spend the rest of our miserable lives together making each other miserable. Goodman Brown President Bush wouldn’t be the head of missing persons in the Sharpton administration. He can’t find Bin Laden, we don’t know if Saddam is alive or dead, and can’t find any weapons of mass destruction. – Rev. Sharpton
Response:
Call me an old timer, out of touch with reality, and a troll all you want
You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality. Ahh, that should sufficient. Thanks, i feel much better.
Response:
let’s spend the rest of our miserable lives together making each other miserable.
She’d be REALLY good at that, plus you could get some hummers along the way.
Response:
You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.You are an old timer-troll, out of touch with reality.
<spanking the monkey while repeating this Ahh, that should sufficient. Thanks, i feel much better.
Ejaculation and the softening of the blow Brown, Goodman Brown. Shaken, not stirred. Howard Dean M.D. for America.
Response:
the softening of the blow
This won’t work if you want to dew Stef Good…
Response:
Sodium percarbonate is a free-flowing powder with a common name of solid hydrogen peroxide, it is an addition compound of sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. Sodium Percarbonate has an active available oxygen content which is equivalent to 27.5% H2O2. It breaks down to oxygen, water and sodium carbonate upon decomposition. Sodium Percarbonate offers many of the same functional benefits as liquid hydrogen peroxide. It dissolves into water rapidly to release oxygen and provides powerful cleaning, bleaching, stain removal and deodorizing capabilities. Sodium percarbonate has a wide range of applications in various cleaning products and detergent formulations including heavy duty laundry detergents, all fabric bleaches, wood deck bleaches, textile bleaches and carpet cleaners. Other applications have been explored in personal care formulations, denture cleaners, pulp and paper bleaching process, and certain food bleaching applications. The product also has functions as disinfector for institutional and home applications, oxygen releasing agent in aquaculture, waste water treatment chemical, first-aid oxygen generating agent, etc. Shangyuchem has been producing sodium percarbonate for more than a decade. Due to its abundant R & D investment and tech innovation, Shangyuchem is able to provide its customers with different specs of quality coated and uncoated sodium percarbonate. Shangyuchem currently has a production capability of 100,000mt annually which can meet customers’ increasing demands on a sustainable base. You’ll feel satisfied with the cooperation with Shangyuchem not only for the reason of good product quality, timely and safe delivery, but also the excellent after market service and tech support. Shangyuchem runs its business on the base of honesty and integrity, Shangyuchem is fully participated in meeting customers’ demands. Shangyuchem-The leading peroxides manufacturer in China, your ideal source for sodium perborate, sodium pecarbonate, oxgen bleaches and oxygen bleaching chemicals. Learn more from http://www.chem-world.com
Response:
Question:
Not sure about solvent but heat gun may help or even a 1500 watt hair dryer and a green scrubbing pad wear a glover or something to protect your hand from the heat! Wayne
No way I would use a green 3M pad, it will scratch the fiberglass. A white 3M pad would be OK. I am installing a new shower stall. The manufacturer recommended lacquer thinner to clean it. I believe lacquer thinner would soften silicone. greg
Response:
<< Promise not to laugh, but I’ve had luck removing stuff like that with a big pink eraser. Now that’s one for the books! I’m going to try it the next time I have to do some tricky recaulks. Sounds neat. Joe
Response:
I’m replacing my shower door, and I’d like to get the remnants of the old silicone sealer off of the fiberglass shower stall. I’ve used a flat razor blade to get it down to practically nothing, but you can feel it, and in some cases still see it. Is there a particular solvent that will do it? Thanks! John — John Gordon jrgordon (at) knology (dot) net
Response:
Not sure about solvent but heat gun may help or even a 1500 watt hair dryer and a green scrubbing pad wear a glover or something to protect your hand from the heat! Wayne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m replacing my shower door, and I’d like to get the remnants of the old silicone sealer off of the fiberglass shower stall. I’ve used a flat razor blade to get it down to practically nothing, but you can feel it, and in some cases still see it. Is there a particular solvent that will do it? Thanks! John — John Gordon jrgordon (at) knology (dot) net
Response:
Having worked with fiberglass somewhat… I WOULD NOT use a heat gun near the stuff. Fiberglass gets soft and with enough heat it could catch on fire. With regard to the silicone, the only thing that I have had work was abrasion. Sometimes, just rubbing my finger over the "skin" of silicone can get it to come up in small bits. Perhaps a judicious application of a MMM kitchen scrubbing pad might work, but it may scratch the fiberglass as well. I found the following reference in a newsgroup. Hope it helps.. I need to remove silicone sealant from glass. What type of solvent will do the job? Where can I get it? Thanks, JCR —
No need to use a solvent. It should peel off the glass easily. If it does then just scrub with a piece of textile fabric (cloth). However, if you cannot peel it off, solvent like trichloroethylene makes the silicone blow up and become incredibly soft. Oliver Senart — regards, RichG ORIGINAL QUESTION:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Not sure about solvent but heat gun may help or even a 1500 watt hair dryer and a green scrubbing pad wear a glover or something to protect your hand from the heat! Wayne I’m replacing my shower door, and I’d like to get the remnants of the old silicone sealer off of the fiberglass shower stall. I’ve used a flat razor blade to get it down to practically nothing, but you can feel it, and in some cases still see it. Is there a particular solvent that will do it? Thanks! John — John Gordon jrgordon (at) knology (dot) net
Response:
<< Is there a particular solvent that will do it? Methylene chloride, a common ingredient in paint removers, will attack the silicone, making it swell and soften, but not dissolve. Trichloroethylene (Trichlor) is slower, but similar. Test first and avoid prolonged exposure before committing a large area of the fiberglass. Use good ventilation, follow directions, etc. Joe
Response:
<< Is there a particular solvent that will do it? Methylene chloride, a common ingredient in paint removers, will attack the silicone, making it swell and soften, but not dissolve. Trichloroethylene (Trichlor) is slower, but similar. Test first and avoid prolonged exposure before committing a large area of the fiberglass. Use good ventilation, follow directions, etc.
Promise not to laugh, but I’ve had luck removing stuff like that with a big pink eraser. All depends how smooth the gelcoat was before the stuff was originally applied, I guess. If you can get one edge started, it seems to ball up the silicone in little strings you can rub off with fingertips or windex. aem sends…
Response:
Question:
Hi I’m new to airbrushing and would like to find information on the following…… How to prepare the surface What paints to use What precautions to take How and what to use to finish (protect) the artwork etc… Thanks Jonathan S. Africa
Response:
Hi, Jonathon… For t-shirt and fabric work, there are a lot of good paints available, and they aren’t very toxic at all. (All paint is toxic to varying degrees, though. It’s still a good idea to wear a mask, not matter what you are doing, and have good ventilation in your work area.) All of the acrylic water based paints will work, especially on all cotton shirts. Createx has an extensive line of paints and additives that are very popular for fabric work. Other paints also work well, but you will need to heat set most of the others with an iron for washability and durability. For an all cotton shirt, you don’t need to do any special preparation, other than stretching it over a board. Check out Bear Air, Coast Airbrush, and as many other sites as you can find for specifics on brands of paint and suggested uses. Most popular airbrushes for textile painting will also work well for auto painting. Some of the popular guns are the Paasche VL and similar models, the Iwata Eclipse, the Badger 150 and similar models, etc. All are generally double action guns that are rather large and sturdy, and have several sizes of needles and tips that can be interchanged for different uses. Most have bottom feed cups or bottles; some have top feed arrangements. I’m a Paasche guy, but all of the guns I mentioned, (and others I didn’t) all have their fans. Buying an airbrush is mostly a matter of trial and error at first, and you will need to expect to buy several before you find the ones that suit you best. The reason I like the Paasche VL is because they are relatively cheap, easy to get parts for, and are durable, but all of them share these qualities to a large degree. The Iwata guns are more expensive than most, but are of very good quality and consistancy, and most often don’t need tinkering or fine tuning as much as most of the others to get them to work at their best. All airbrushes are finicky. They all tend to plug up with sustained use, and all seem to have different amounts of paint thinning and maintanance requirements to keep them running at their best. You need to keep any airbrush VERY clean, and it’s a big help to learn right at the beginning how they are assembled, so you can strip one down compelely for total cleaning occaisionally. Make sure the compressor you choose has a moisture trap on the air line, and make sure to drain the trap and tank often. Air pressure is largely a matter of what works best for you, but most textile work can be done at around 18-30 pounds of pressure. The more pressure used, the faster the spray and the more overspray produced. Experimentation will provide you with the pressure you work best at. When you buy your gun and paint, plan on doing a lot of experimentation, for sure. The airbrush takes a lot of practice, and everyone seems to have a different approach and preferences. Textiles are a good place to start, and I suggest doing some work on illustration board next. After you learn how to handle a harder surface like illustration board, try automobiles. The textiles are the most forgiving surface, and metal surfaces are the least. Before trying any work on autos, I suggest experimenting on old car doors and fenders before trying anything on someone else’s automobile. Metal surfaces will need to be de-greased thoroughly, and lightly sanded in the painting area as a minimum prep. Often, spraying an automobile primer is also a very good idea, too, and you will probably need a larger spray gun and higher pressure for this purpose. Hope this helps, Stanger
Response:
Hi, Jonathon… All of your questions really depend on what kind of airbrushing work you want to do. For illustration or fine art work, very little needs to be done for surface prep if you plan to use illustration board, for example, but lots needs to be done if you want to do automotive or motorcycle work. Same goes for paints, precautions, etc. Give us more details for more specific answers. Regards, Stanger
Response:
I’m starting off with fabric/t-shirt work but would also like to start doing auto/helmet and body art. I know that you can either use acrylics or urethane paints for automotive, urehthane been on the toxic side. It’s extremely difficult to get information locally (S. Africa), we don’t have such things as expos, classes, etc. Even getting info from dealers is extremely difficult. I’ve managed to get my hands on some books but none of them really go into too much detail on the 1. different paints, 2. which surfaces they can be used on, 3. mixing procedures, 4. surface preparations, 5. air pressures, 6. precautions, etc… I need to know the answers to the above for each type of application (automotive, helmets, motorcycles, bodyart and , ) Your insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Jonathon… All of your questions really depend on what kind of airbrushing work you want to do. For illustration or fine art work, very little needs to be done for surface prep if you plan to use illustration board, for example, but lots needs to be done if you want to do automotive or motorcycle work. Same goes for paints, precautions, etc. Give us more details for more specific answers. Regards, Stanger
Response:
Question:
Do NOT use contact cement. I did so on my Jeanneau (85) and within a few weeks the light beige vinyl turned dark brown wherever the contact cemenet had been applied on the back! I REPEAT – DO NOT USE CONTACT CEMENT!!
Our last boat was completely relined with foam backed vinyl, stuck on with contact adhesives specifically made for the purpose. The coat on the glass fibre was out of a tin and applied with a spreader but the stuff for applying to the foam was in an aerosol can. The two surfaces stuck immediately on contact and no discolouration whatsoever. Any residue left on the vinyl face surface could be peeled off the once dry. A U.K contact for vinyl and adhesives who may ship overseas is – Hawke House Marine, Fax 0044-1329-668400. Graham.
Response:
The part number of the Spray Contact Cement for foam backed headliners, etc. is: 3M Super Trim Adhesive Part NO. 08090 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Go to an automotive supply store and get "heavy duty" headliner adhesive – spray cans. Look for one that is compatible with foam backing not all are. Remove the panels entirely, scrape the foam with a very sharp knife to remove the old dead foam…. and then apply glue. Becareful as this stuff is contact cement and you will only get ONE chance to do the placement correctly. Hi everybody, does anybody know what adhesive to use to glue the inner lining (textile material with foam backing) back to the inside walls on Jeanneau boats (1984 – 86 models)? Actually the peeling is caused by aging foam backing, which is effectively disintegrating. Any advise appreciated. Miro Kalovsky, Toronto
Response:
Miro- Once the foam starts to break down, it’s really ‘game over’ for the hull lining. You can re-stick it all you want with whatever glue you want, but the disintegrating foam will just continue to crumble and the lining will pop loose all over again. It is a major project, but pulling out all of the old material and replacing it with new is the best way to go. We replaced all of the old foam and vinyl fabric hull lining or ‘ceiling’ in our boat. We started out using traditional Weldwood contact cement, but had troubles with "hot spots" where the glue would brush onto a little too thick in places, and cause the foam to melt slightly. This created dimples in the finished project, so we abandoned the brush on adhesive and went to the 3M spray product that was suggested in another post. It is available in home centers for about ten dollars a can, and is well worth the cash outlay as there is less waste and fumes when using the spray as opposed to the brush-on adhesive, and there will be no trouble with hot spots. I have some photos and text on this topic on my website at: http://www.frontiernet.net/~mpetrush/pearson/ The photos are in the ‘interior work’ section, and there are some comments on the job in the ‘maintenance section (scroll down ’till you get to "Repairs" and to "Ceiling". Good luck with your project. It is a worthwhile one, as the boat will look and feel (and smell) brand new inside when you are finished. Regards, Mark Petrush.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi everybody, does anybody know what adhesive to use to glue the inner lining (textile material with foam backing) back to the inside walls on Jeanneau boats (1984 – 86 models)? Actually the peeling is caused by aging foam backing, which is effectively disintegrating. Any advise appreciated. Miro Kalovsky, Toronto
Response:
Hi everybody, does anybody know what adhesive to use to glue the inner lining (textile material with foam backing) back to the inside walls on Jeanneau boats (1984 – 86 models)? Actually the peeling is caused by aging foam backing, which is effectively disintegrating. Any advise appreciated. Miro Kalovsky, Toronto
Response:
Go to an automotive supply store and get "heavy duty" headliner adhesive – spray cans. Look for one that is compatible with foam backing not all are. Remove the panels entirely, scrape the foam with a very sharp knife to remove the old dead foam…. and then apply glue. Becareful as this stuff is contact cement and you will only get ONE chance to do the placement correctly. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi everybody, does anybody know what adhesive to use to glue the inner lining (textile material with foam backing) back to the inside walls on Jeanneau boats (1984 – 86 models)? Actually the peeling is caused by aging foam backing, which is effectively disintegrating. Any advise appreciated. Miro Kalovsky, Toronto
Response:
Do NOT use contact cement. I did so on my Jeanneau (85) and within a few weeks the light beige vinyl turned dark brown wherever the contact cemenet had been applied on the back! I REPEAT – DO NOT USE CONTACT CEMENT!! I ended up making a hell of a mess…surprised me bigtime. Live and learn huh? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi everybody, does anybody know what adhesive to use to glue the inner lining (textile material with foam backing) back to the inside walls on Jeanneau boats (1984 – 86 models)? Actually the peeling is caused by aging foam backing, which is effectively disintegrating. Any advise appreciated. Miro Kalovsky, Toronto
Response:
Question:
Textile and Fiber Crafts Weaving is a method of creating fabric by interlacing two sets of yarn threads called the warp and the weft. The warp threads form the base for the weaving; they are arranged parallel to one another and held in tension on a loom. The weft is a single thread that is passed over and under the warp threads in a systematic way to create a solid or patterned piece of cloth. Beginners can outfit themselves inexpensively by making or purchasing simple looms. More advanced weavers working on large pieces use the treadle loom, a large, fairly expensive machine that holds long warp threads and can make quick and complicated changes in the placement of these threads to allow for many patterns. Basketry is the craft of making baskets and bags, mats, rugs, and other items through weaving, plaiting, and coiling techniques. Traditional basketry materials include reed, cane, rush, sisal fiber, and ash-wood splints. Equipment is simple: a knife, scissors, a sturdy needle for sewing together coiled baskets, and roundnose pliers for pulling difficult reeds. Beginners are able to produce satisfactory, simple products, and more advanced basket makers find challenge in complex patterns and forms. In macrame, or ornamental knotting, cotton, linen, or jute cord or rug yarn is used to make bags, wall hangings, and containers. A knotting board with pins helps keep the work in place, and a yardstick and scissors are also useful. In embroidery, a needle and thread are used to create designs on fabric. Many styles of embroidery exist. Some are used to decorate areas on a piece of cloth, usually linen; other styles, notably needlepoint and bargello, are used to fill in completely with pattern an openwork mesh canvas. Embroidery requires frames and hoops to hold the fabric in tension, embroidery needles, scissors, thread, and yarn. www.somondoco.com
Response:
Textile and Fiber Crafts
<large body of wayyyy-off-topic text deleted and cross-posting NG removed from header Can you weave me a natural-fiber hemp carboy cooler? Something that could be kept wet with a fan blowing on it, perhaps…. Or how about a fine-mesh nylon hop/grain bag? Attempt at bringing this thread back on-topic fails miserably…. {:-( — DAsh "I just bought some powdered water, but I don’t know what to add!" –Steven Wright"
Response:
Or perhaps a little macrame could be used to add "body" to a beer…fiber is good for you, right? I have heard that hop bines make great basket weaving material. Haven’t really got the urge to take on that project though. I did find myself getting to the end of the original post and thinking, "this affects me HOW?" Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Can you weave me a natural-fiber hemp carboy cooler? Something that could be kept wet with a fan blowing on it, perhaps…. Or how about a fine-mesh nylon hop/grain bag? Attempt at bringing this thread back on-topic fails miserably…. {:-( — DAsh "I just bought some powdered water, but I don’t know what to add!" –Steven Wright"
Response:
Textile and Fiber Crafts Weaving is a method of creating fabric by interlacing two sets of yarn threads called the warp and the weft. Basketry is the craft of making baskets and bags, mats, rugs, and other items through weaving, plaiting, and coiling techniques.
Hmmm…well, I’m sure I could use a few new coasters for the bar. (g) Wanta Beer…? ]]]Z[[[
Response:
Grain husks have fibers. I could dry out my spent grains, mix them with epoxy resin, and use it to patch rust holes in my car. Auto repair is kind of a craft. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Textile and Fiber Crafts
Response:
Just FYI and FWIW… If you post to the original thread without removing the second NG link you will be cross-posting! — DAsh "I just bought some powdered water, but I don’t know what to add!" –Steven Wright"
Response:
Textile and Fiber Crafts: A weaver, a basket maker, and a homebrewer are all making Christmas presents for their friends and family. The weaver makes raindeer coasters. The basket-maker makes bright seasonal baskets. The homebrewer brews manna from heaven. With the weaver and the basket-maker, it is the thought that counts. Ain’t it great to be a brewer? Carter
Response:
The weaver makes raindeer coasters. The basket-maker makes bright seasonal baskets. The homebrewer brews manna from heaven.
You could always team up and get the basket weaver to make your homebrew look like it’s in Chianti bottles :)
Response:
Question:
Looking for a source for very wide ripstop nylon fabric to make an ultra large light box. I’ve seen 60 inch wide fabric, but I’m hoping to find 84 to 96 inch width by same length. I’d like to find white diffusion fabric, as well as silver/black reflective. Thanks.
Response:
Extra-Wide RipStop Nylon For Light Box ??
Try a large kite store on a dealer advertised in a kite mag.
Response:
Looking for a source for very wide ripstop nylon fabric to make an ultra large light box. I’ve seen 60 inch wide fabric, but I’m hoping to find 84 to 96 inch width by same length. I’d like to find white diffusion fabric, as well as silver/black reflective. Thanks.
Possible thoughts: Searches on: Balloon manufacturers, Hot-air, Parachute manufacturers http://www.textiletraders.net/directory/welcome.html A directory of every textile trading company in the world… I suspect these are very proprietary fabrics having little usage other than in reflectors. Also I believe, two sided or bonded fabrics are mainly imports and possibly one of the manufacturers currently making reflectors might help you out. I would be very willing to bet these are all offshore plants producing these bonded fabrics to order. I know of few plants in the States with looms larger than 60 inches. Seaming would be the answer and in that large an area the amount of lights to fill it and internal reflection would nigate "line problems". Some of the guys in the old days (of PLAYBOY) just draped material all over the place and shot through the loose stuff without boxes. It was a variation on tenting and was effective. Best bet might be to contact PhotoGenic, Novatron, Speedo and every other manufacturer as to who they could turn you on to… Good Hunting…
Response:
Question:
A related question: What is the life expectancy of a covering job for an aircraft that is hangared, vs one stored outside. I have heard that Ceconite is good for 15 years outside, and almost indefinitely if hangared.
Good question. No good answer. With Ceconite it is usually the finish that gives up the ghost. I have never recovered an aircraft that was covered with Ceconite because the fabric was bad. Always when the finish got to the point where it wasn’t worth rejuvenating. Usually when it was finished with enamel over the dope. I have seen cotton coverings that were over thirty years old and still airworthy. And I have seen cotton that was no longer airworthy after as little as five years. Generally, Ceconite will last until you have to take it off to go over the structure. In a typical recover job you spend much more time on structural repairs and refitting before you recover it, than you do on the covering itself. It is sort of like painting. The prep work takes more time than the painting does! — HighFlyer Highflight Aviation Services
Response:
A related question: What is the life expectancy of a covering job for an aircraft that is hangared, vs one stored outside. I have heard that Ceconite is good for 15 years outside, and almost indefinitely if hangared. Johnk
Ceconite is a polyester fabric that deteriorates from exposure to sunlight (UV). If the coatings are intact it just doesn’t age. Not much else in the environment attacks polyester. If the outside stored aircraft is kept clean, waxed, rejuvenated when needed and patched if physically damaged, it can make those 15 to 20 years. Hangared planes may never need to be recovered, but the fuselage may rot away beneath it if not inspected. — Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8L Engine and V-6 STOL | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| (-o-)/ AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO. ___/ Manufacturing parts & pieces / for homebuilt aircraft, TIG welding 0 0
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear Highflyer: It is very interesting to me to note that on a total $4000 dollar cover job the cost of the fabric alone was just $600. I had no idea of the costs of certified ceconite process breaking down like that. I wonder how much per yard it costs… I know i could look at Aircraft Spruce or other suppliers but I just was asking around to help a friend. I assume the $4000 fugure quoted that was just for materials only and did not include labor. So the cost is heavily tilted for the paint supplies huh? I did not know that. Thanks. It is always amusing to hear of alternatives used by others and by some claims successfully. Certainly not amusing however to learn of crashes as a result. Yeah it’s the umpteen gallons of dope that costs several thousand dollars. A Pietenpol builder in Utah or somewhere used premium Sherwin Williams exterior latex housepaint. I saw his airplane at Osh and it looked great, like the old satin dope finish. He used a UV blocking black latex primer and then the regular satin finish colour. After about a year he was reporting good results, although if the airplane was stored outside I think you could only expect about 4 years out of it. Hardly worth it in the long run. The alternative polyurethane based processes like HIPEC are supposed to cost about 1/3 less than a dope covering job because they only require 4 or so total coats so you only use about half as much. johnk
Finish adhesion is the real problem. Polyester is a very slick fiber and very few finishes bond to it well. Even butyrate dope will not stay on polyester for long. I have seen many samples of fabric that were contaminated with silicones that they apparently used for a lubricant on the machinery in the fabric mill. Silicones will seriously impede bonding and are very hard to remove from the fabric. John Schwander tried to use one of those "advanced" coatings on his Waco. After a year he gave up, removed the fabric, and redid the whole thing with the Ceconite process. I also favor the Ceconite process and have had excellent success with it over the years. Many people also swear by the Stitts Polyfiber process. If you use the Ceconite get your finishing materials from Randolph. I have had problems with less expensive finishs. I guess it comes down to "Are the savings worth the gamble?" A fabric recover job these days generally costs about $10,000. Figure about forty percent materials and sixty percent labor. Fabric work is very labor intensive, especially if you want a quality job. There really are no shortcuts. — HighFlyer Highflight Aviation Services
Response:
A related question: What is the life expectancy of a covering job for an aircraft that is hangared, vs one stored outside. I have heard that Ceconite is good for 15 years outside, and almost indefinitely if hangared. Johnk – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I guess it comes down to "Are the savings worth the gamble?" A fabric recover job these days generally costs about $10,000. Figure about forty percent materials and sixty percent labor. Fabric work is very labor intensive, especially if you want a quality job. There really are no shortcuts. — HighFlyer Highflight Aviation Services
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Rory- You must be very careful here… I suspect we should ask the advice of many others building planes with fabric. there are several email lists discussing construction. I’ll see what I can find out. Here is what I do know having worked in Textile mills. Polyester yarn after being woven into fabric is usually placed in heat set chambers and baked. this provides for a pre shrink action and also locks in some color dyes that may have been used and preserves the yarn twist which gives some strength to the fabric. This I know. I’ve gathered that with aircraft polyester fabric that the dyes are not used and the fabric is not baked in the heat set chambers which allow for the heat shrinking process to occur. Same molecular process occurs in shrink wrapping retail packages. Any cellophane when heated will shrink a certain amount. Also, some stain resisting additives are added along the way in many polyester garments and It certainly makes sense that these would resist the penetration of glues and paint etc. So the question is where to buy non heat processed polyester fabric without dyes and stain resisting chemicals and treatments with the proper size yarn and thread count and fabric weight etc. I dont know but I think I remember hearing some suppliers selling "non certified" aircraft fabric for much less than "ceconite" with the proper yarn size and weave tightness and fabric weight suitable for "non certified" aircraft use.
I would worry about the processing for any polyester fabric that was not processed specifically for aircraft use. Ceconite fabric is NOT expensive. I recently recovered my very large airplane. My materials cost for the recovering job was about $4000. Of that, the complete set of pre-sewn envelopes for my airplane was less than $600. If I had used non-certified fabric I could have saved about twenty percent on the fabric. That would be $120 out of $4000! Certified Ceconite fabric, finished with the Ceconite process works well on aircraft. I have seen many people try experimenting with different finishing materials to cut the cost of the job. The results have been uniformly bad. Even if it looks good, the finish tends to come off in a few years, necessitating recovering the aircraft. That is not a good place to cut corners. Actually, there ARE no good places to cut corners when you are building a flying machine. Just my opinion, mind you. I have been building and fixing and restoring aircraft for over forty years, so I have seen quite a few variations on the theme. — HighFlyer Highflight Aviation Services
Response:
Dear Highflyer: It is very interesting to me to note that on a total $4000 dollar cover job the cost of the fabric alone was just $600. I had no idea of the costs of certified ceconite process breaking down like that. I wonder how much per yard it costs… I know i could look at Aircraft Spruce or other suppliers but I just was asking around to help a friend. I assume the $4000 fugure quoted that was just for materials only and did not include labor. So the cost is heavily tilted for the paint supplies huh? I did not know that. Thanks. It is always amusing to hear of alternatives used by others and by some claims successfully. Certainly not amusing however to learn of crashes as a result.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dear Highflyer: It is very interesting to me to note that on a total $4000 dollar cover job the cost of the fabric alone was just $600. I had no idea of the costs of certified ceconite process breaking down like that. I wonder how much per yard it costs… I know i could look at Aircraft Spruce or other suppliers but I just was asking around to help a friend. I assume the $4000 fugure quoted that was just for materials only and did not include labor. So the cost is heavily tilted for the paint supplies huh? I did not know that. Thanks. It is always amusing to hear of alternatives used by others and by some claims successfully. Certainly not amusing however to learn of crashes as a result.
Yeah it’s the umpteen gallons of dope that costs several thousand dollars. A Pietenpol builder in Utah or somewhere used premium Sherwin Williams exterior latex housepaint. I saw his airplane at Osh and it looked great, like the old satin dope finish. He used a UV blocking black latex primer and then the regular satin finish colour. After about a year he was reporting good results, although if the airplane was stored outside I think you could only expect about 4 years out of it. Hardly worth it in the long run. The alternative polyurethane based processes like HIPEC are supposed to cost about 1/3 less than a dope covering job because they only require 4 or so total coats so you only use about half as much. johnk
Response:
Rory- You must be very careful here… I suspect we should ask the advice of many others building planes with fabric. there are several email lists discussing construction. I’ll see what I can find out.
(snipped a bunch of good, but non-relevant info) I dont know but I think I remember hearing some suppliers selling "non certified" aircraft fabric for much less than "ceconite" with the proper yarn size and weave tightness and fabric weight suitable for "non certified" aircraft use. I dont think I could suggest cotton. Lets do some more research and see what we can find re the availablity of cheaper alternatives to expensive "ceconite" polyester fabric.
The cost difference between an "alternative" fabric and certified polyester is inconsequential compared to the total cost of a covering job. For my airplane, using non-certified fabric would have saved perhaps $60. The entire covering and painting project cost $3,900 in materials and six months of my labor. The extra $60 is cheap insurance against discovering that your bargain fabic is somehow incompatible, resulting in completely re-doing the covering. Don’t waste your time. If you want to, figure it this way. You might spend a couple of hours of your time researching and purchasing an alternate fabric. Instead, spend the two hours doing something you enjoy, and are an expert at, and earn the $60 :O) (I realize that we are talking about Rory here and not you personally) — Rich Shankland "You cain’t frown when a banjo’s plinkin’"
Response:
Rory- You must be very careful here… I suspect we should ask the advice of many others building planes with fabric. there are several email lists discussing construction. I’ll see what I can find out. Here is what I do know having worked in Textile mills. Polyester yarn after being woven into fabric is usually placed in heat set chambers and baked. this provides for a pre shrink action and also locks in some color dyes that may have been used and preserves the yarn twist which gives some strength to the fabric. This I know. I’ve gathered that with aircraft polyester fabric that the dyes are not used and the fabric is not baked in the heat set chambers which allow for the heat shrinking process to occur. Same molecular process occurs in shrink wrapping retail packages. Any cellophane when heated will shrink a certain amount. Also, some stain resisting additives are added along the way in many polyester garments and It certainly makes sense that these would resist the penetration of glues and paint etc. So the question is where to buy non heat processed polyester fabric without dyes and stain resisting chemicals and treatments with the proper size yarn and thread count and fabric weight etc. I dont know but I think I remember hearing some suppliers selling "non certified" aircraft fabric for much less than "ceconite" with the proper yarn size and weave tightness and fabric weight suitable for "non certified" aircraft use. I dont think I could suggest cotton. Lets do some more research and see what we can find re the availablity of cheaper alternatives to expensive "ceconite" polyester fabric. What engine do you plan to use? What is your target empty weight of plane? Which areas and how are you going to beef up and build stronger ? Many guys I’ve heard have used Latex House paint and it has worked well although heavy. I think if I were building WoodHopper I probably would not use any paint to keep it light…. or I might use some clear or add some color to a very flexible and thin coat of polyurethane type paint to seal fabric though. Hi Scott I’m getting ready to start building a WoodHopper soon- and will document every stage – but can you advise me please on the fabric. The plans (and the Popular Mechanics article) say that I can use 3.0 Dacron, ‘as used in women’s under garments’. But in the GYPSY
construction manual it says to use 1.7 oz. Ceconite (dacron) covering and adds ‘DO NOT use dacron or polyster dress lining or any fabric intended for clothing. Some of these materials have stain protection agents which inhibit the bond of glue and paint’. What gives? I can buy Ceconite 102 in England, but it’s expensive. could I use cotton instead???
Response:
Question:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:00:51 -0700, George Parton <gepar…@earthlink.net> wrote: >For anyone that has sun sensitive skin, my wife found a source for >fabric called Solarweave. She has purchased quite a bit and found all of >it to be of nice quality. For anyone that has a need for this, you can >contact Paula at: >wnfab…@teleport.com (Weather or Not Fabrics) >We have no connection with Paula except as a satisfied customer. >George
Much thanks. Though I love my solumbra stuff, I’d like to be able to get just large pieces of the material to use as a coverup in the car or the like. I assume this is similar material with a similar UV block rating. take care, kcat
Response:
The other day I read about a laundry additive that is new on the market that will give your clothing an SPF of about 25 and will last through many washings. Of course, now I cannot find the article (story of my life) but when I do…I’ll make to pass along the info. Sounds like a nifty thing (although I have this mental picture of it turning all the clothes into papier mache or something!) Mary T. from WA where we actually needed SPF today
Response:
In article <5ra47tsecdnfqq164ago84desjrghvh…@4ax.com>, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -KCat <kcdoc…@ghg.net> wrote: >On Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:00:51 -0700, George Parton ><gepar…@earthlink.net> wrote: >>For anyone that has sun sensitive skin, my wife found a source for >>fabric called Solarweave. She has purchased quite a bit and found all of >>it to be of nice quality. For anyone that has a need for this, you can >>contact Paula at: >>wnfab…@teleport.com (Weather or Not Fabrics) >>We have no connection with Paula except as a satisfied customer. >Though I love my solumbra stuff, I’d like to be able to get just large >pieces of the material to use as a coverup in the car or the like. I >assume this is similar material with a similar UV block rating.
Solarweave and Solarknit were both developed by NASA. They actually predate Solumbra, which was a privately funded effort (after it was obvious one _could_ make a UV-blocking fabric). The other sources I have for Solarweave are: http://www.uvclothing.com/ Sun Protective Clothing Company, Ltd. This is a canadian company, but their website will take US funds. http://www.justmakeit.com/ Textile Outfitters. Another canadian company. I really, _really_ wish the US distributors would get websites. — Lee M.Thompson-Herbert KD6WUR l…@retro.com Head Muso, White Rats Morris Member, Knights of Xenu (1995). Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades. "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
Response:
Thanks for posting the Canadian sites re protective wear. With our $ at only 66c to the US $, it makes the Solumbra clothing very expensive whereas it makes it a good buy to those in the States. Lil
Response:
For anyone that has sun sensitive skin, my wife found a source for fabric called Solarweave. She has purchased quite a bit and found all of it to be of nice quality. For anyone that has a need for this, you can contact Paula at: wnfab…@teleport.com (Weather or Not Fabrics) We have no connection with Paula except as a satisfied customer. George
Response:
Question:
I’m coming in late on this thread, but want to mention that Sue Newhouse uses this stuff extensively in her hand embroideries. She has a couple of books out-I’ve gotten mine at Border’s. She & her students produce some truly wonderful stitcheries! Beverly On Sun, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, Nan! All these "half" descriptions. <very big grin At first I thought machine embroidery. But now I’m thinking a more avante garde hand embroidery. So, who manufacturers this "stuff", where do you get it, and are you using it for HAND work? Finally, is there a place on the Internet where we could see a picture of a final product? Or a work in progress? Inquiring minds want to know Dianne Sorry Dianne. The post I sent was just to warn about how easily it can all fall apart! It is used mostly for machine stitching. You make a ‘net’ using machine stitching. If you make a big enough piece, you can treat the net like a fabric in itself and embellish it with stitching, beading etc. I’ve also used it in layers to trap fragments of fabric, before stitching. I haven’t got a website, but there may be some examples on websites such as www.62group.freeuk.com Some of these textile artists use this technique in some of their work. I buy mine from a schools’ supply shop. I have seen it in specialist needlecraft shops and in general craft shops too. I am unaware of a tradename, I just order hot or cold water dissolvable fabric. There probably is a tradename but I buy it by the metre, off the roll. hope this helps nan
- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering Princeton University Princeton, New Jersey, USA
Response:
Okay, Nan! All these "half" descriptions. <very big grin At first I thought machine embroidery. But now I’m thinking a more avante garde hand embroidery. So, who manufacturers this "stuff", where do you get it, and are you using it for HAND work? Finally, is there a place on the Internet where we could see a picture of a final product? Or a work in progress? Inquiring minds want to know Dianne
Sorry Dianne. The post I sent was just to warn about how easily it can all fall apart! It is used mostly for machine stitching. You make a ‘net’ using machine stitching. If you make a big enough piece, you can treat the net like a fabric in itself and embellish it with stitching, beading etc. I’ve also used it in layers to trap fragments of fabric, before stitching. I haven’t got a website, but there may be some examples on websites such as www.62group.freeuk.com Some of these textile artists use this technique in some of their work. I buy mine from a schools’ supply shop. I have seen it in specialist needlecraft shops and in general craft shops too. I am unaware of a tradename, I just order hot or cold water dissolvable fabric. There probably is a tradename but I buy it by the metre, off the roll. hope this helps nan
Response:
Just a warning! Make sure that the stitches cross over each other lots of times, you have to stitch a ‘net’. Otherwise the whole thing will fall apart. I use this stuff and hot water soluble fabric which is a bit more substantial, a lot. It’s wonderful stuff! Nan
Response:
Okay, Nan! All these "half" descriptions. <very big grin At first I thought machine embroidery. But now I’m thinking a more avante garde hand embroidery. So, who manufacturers this "stuff", where do you get it, and are you using it for HAND work? Finally, is there a place on the Internet where we could see a picture of a final product? Or a work in progress? Inquiring minds want to know Dianne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just a warning! Make sure that the stitches cross over each other lots of times, you have to stitch a ‘net’. Otherwise the whole thing will fall apart. I use this stuff and hot water soluble fabric which is a bit more substantial, a lot. It’s wonderful stuff! Nan
Response:
Previous page