Textiles Talk

Making a decorative grill cover?

admin — Fri, 15 Sep 2006 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

So I’m starting a band that’s kind of image oriented. Here’s my idea: Getting the logo silkscreened on a cloth covering of some sort that would go over the grill cloth temporarily during live shows. I don’t want to permanently marr the amp, as I’m in other bands as well. So I need something that would be able to come off and on. There are a million ways to do this. But I was wondering if any of you guys have done this before so you may have figured out the method with the least "bugs". I’m thinking in order to keep the design always the shape it’s supposed to be, it would have to be stretched on some sort of frame, right? So I could attach the frame over the grill with a velcro setup (although I wouldn’t mind avoiding using velcro which would be permanently on the amp). Or I could have some sort of strap system that holds it onto the amp? Or maybe just a stand so it sits in front of the amp? What do you guys think? Cloth/material suggestions? BTW, I have a couple of custom 1 12" combos.

Response:

I like your frame held on by velcro idea. I think you might be able to sew the velcro strip to your grill cloth so that it won’t be permanent. I have no idea what kind of cloth to use for the frame. I’d look into what cloth silkscreens well I guess. The silk screening won’t exactly be acoustically transparent. So where it is in front on the speaker will probably have a drastic effect on your sound with a 1×12 cabinet. With a 2×12, 4×12, or 4×10 cabinet, I don’t think there’d be as much of an effect. Pete

Response:

What do you guys think? Cloth/material suggestions?

Go to a speaker store (or website) and look into "acoustically transparent" speaker cloth. Usually it’s black, so you’ll have to silkscreen your logo in white or a light color. But who knows, nowadays you might find a variety of colors… You can find silkscreening kits at art supply stores. It’s a bit of a pain to do, but you get very professional results (a friend of mine does t-shirts). – Rich

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So I’m starting a band that’s kind of image oriented. Here’s my idea: Getting the logo silkscreened on a cloth covering of some sort that would go over the grill cloth temporarily during live shows. I don’t want to permanently marr the amp, as I’m in other bands as well. So I need something that would be able to come off and on. There are a million ways to do this. But I was wondering if any of you guys have done this before so you may have figured out the method with the least "bugs". I’m thinking in order to keep the design always the shape it’s supposed to be, it would have to be stretched on some sort of frame, right? So I could attach the frame over the grill with a velcro setup (although I wouldn’t mind avoiding using velcro which would be permanently on the amp). Or I could have some sort of strap system that holds it onto the amp? Or maybe just a stand so it sits in front of the amp? What do you guys think? Cloth/material suggestions? BTW, I have a couple of custom 1 12" combos.

Art work aside, I did something similar years ago and simply used some straight pins to fasten the custom cloth to the existing grill cloth on the amp (Fender Deluxe). Obviously, this isn’t a very sturdy setup and you’ll have to pin the cloth up at every gig, but I think it’s better than sticking the gummy side of velcro to your amp and risk having residue left on it should you decide to get rid of the velcro altogether.

Response:

I hadn’t even thought of the acoustic repercussions, so I’m glad I asked. I’ll look into the "acoustically transparent" stuff. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – So I’m starting a band that’s kind of image oriented. Here’s my idea: Getting the logo silkscreened on a cloth covering of some sort that would go over the grill cloth temporarily during live shows. I don’t want to permanently marr the amp, as I’m in other bands as well. So I need something that would be able to come off and on. There are a million ways to do this. But I was wondering if any of you guys have done this before so you may have figured out the method with the least "bugs". I’m thinking in order to keep the design always the shape it’s supposed to be, it would have to be stretched on some sort of frame, right? So I could attach the frame over the grill with a velcro setup (although I wouldn’t mind avoiding using velcro which would be permanently on the amp). Or I could have some sort of strap system that holds it onto the amp? Or maybe just a stand so it sits in front of the amp? What do you guys think? Cloth/material suggestions? BTW, I have a couple of custom 1 12" combos. Art work aside, I did something similar years ago and simply used some straight pins to fasten the custom cloth to the existing grill cloth on the amp (Fender Deluxe). Obviously, this isn’t a very sturdy setup and you’ll have to pin the cloth up at every gig, but I think it’s better than sticking the gummy side of velcro to your amp and risk having residue left on it should you decide to get rid of the velcro altogether.

Response:

I’d forget about silk screening ans see if you can print the material on a color plotter. Many reprographic outfits have ink jet printers that work on fabric. find someone who can do this on aucoustic fabric. Silk screening is messing and it WILL clog up your cloth. see these speakers? http://www.artcousticusa.com/photogallery.asp these were printed with an ink jet things to think about – A Match Print or Printed Color Proof of the artwork, approved (signed and dated) by the client must be supplied along with the order. File format: JPG (highest quality setting) or TIFF The file size must be at least as large as the size of the screen (in inches) and at a resolution of at least 120 ppi (pixels per inch). If the picture is not the same proportions or ratio to your speaker, provide CROP MARKS on the file and printed proofs to show where to crop the art or photo. Size and resolution are interdependent: A 300 ppi file measuring 9.6" x 7.6" is the same as a 120 ppi file measuring 24" x 19". Remember: Enlarging any digital image will reduce its resolution proportionally. Most photographs and artwork, when professionally scanned, are at a resolution of 300 ppi. Converting such a file to 120 ppi will enlarge its physical dimensions by a factor of 2.5 (300/120). On the other hand, images you see on web sites are typically at 72 ppi; converting such images to 120 ppi will reduce their physical dimensions by a factor of 0.6 (72/120). other examples http://www.pmiltd.com/salonpictures.html These are very easy to DIY – go to your local blueprint/sign shop for large format print to fabric services. From there forward it is the same as making a DIY framed fabric panel.

Response:

How todo wash (towels)

admin — Thu, 08 Dec 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I forgot a couple things. SC-200 is listed as "for industrial use only" (although they’ve sold me many gallons) – just get an MSDS every time. Know that the product is probably if not definitely FATAL IF SWALLOWED, and do *whatever you have to do* to ensure that no child ever, ever gets their hands on a bottle of it. It makes the towels useless for what they were designed to do. Addicted to fabric softener for your towels? Try not using it for an entire month, and tell me that you didn’t notice that they were TON’s more effective in drying your body after a shower. No FABRIC SOFTENER! NO WIRE HANGERS !!!!!!! Also, you can use 1/4 of a cup of bleach. The one cup thing does wear out your cloth items after a while. The proponents of the one-cup method will often counter (effectively) with, "Well, Gary, by the time I have ‘worn out’ my kitchen towels, I was probably sick of them anyway, and wanted new ones, so who cares?" which was hard to argue against. According to Steven Covey, "The Main thing, is to keep the main thing the main thing." I have failed this principle miserably, but possibly given some other information, perhaps about products, perhaps about my state of mind, likely both. Who cares, it didn’t cost ya anything, and if it amused you, then I’m pleased. Gary

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I mostly agree with Jessica. You must NOT allow your towels to sit in the washer while wet, because they grow molds, and smell "funny" even after having been dried. Wash, then put in dryer within 22.5 minutes. Use a decent detergent, like Tide clear, or All clear. If they are smelly and nasty, by all means do use some Clorox 2. You generally don’t have to use that much detergent for towels, because they usually aren’t that dirty (you dry your "just washed" body with them, after showering, how dirty can they be?) You can also add a cup of ammonia to the wash water - buy cheap ammonia, it’s all the same. Although "parson’s clear ammonia" the blue colored one, for washing glass smells the best, in my opinion. I do not use liquid chlorine bleach on anything, due to it’s strong oxidizing power, which tends to wear out clothing, or any fabrics it touches over the years. If something is especially disgusting or filthy (cat urine/feces residue on a towel, then either throw it away – my personal choice – or use liquid chlorine bleach in the wash water. 97.453 percent of people who have this smelly towel problem washed their towels just fine, and then left them overnight, and threw them in the dryer the next morning, or afternoon. Wash, then dry – no delay – I almost guarantee you will solve your entire problem. While on the subject, many people have funky washers, due to all the various soap residues, smears of fabric softeners, general dirt, etc. Here is your next "fairly easy" project, that yields pleasing results. Get a bottle of Clorox Clean Up. It is a spray bottle, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you NOT EVER spray it, EVER. Take the sprayer unit off, and wipe down the entirety of the lid on your washer (top first) then inside, use liberal (dripping off cloth) amount on the cloth when you POUR the product onto the cloth. Do NOT spray it !!!! DO NOT! Then, wait about 15 minutes, for the product to attack, then take a toothbrush, or other suitable smaller brush, and scrub all the gook and crud and mold (which you can’t see, but it’s there) We’re talking inside lid, by the hinge, all on the surface of the inside lid, any dispensers (often removable) for bleach or fabric softener or detergent. Just clean the HELL out of it. Rinse brush several times in hot water in kitchen sink during this procedure, as it will become saturated with thick soap residues, rendering it less effective. Again, allow the product to sit for 5 minutes, when you feel you have cleaned it well in everywhere you could reach. Rescrub any places that may have possible dirt/scum. Use hot water from a saucepan to rinse the inside lid, hinges, all around the interior of the entry-way into your washer. Any uncleaned places will be disclosed! Scrub again. Repeat rinse. Now, if you really want to attack these odd smells, get some Clorox brand (recommend "fresh scent") bleach, and add 1 1/2 cups to the FILLED washer, which you have filled with COLD water. Run the washer on high agitate (like you would for non-delicate clothing, or towels. If you have a towel you don’t care that much about, throw it in (it it’s clean!) Before the rinse cycle starts, stop the washer, and let it sit for 30 minutes, start a timer to remind you – you do not want to let that sit overnight by accident. After 30 minutes, re-set the dial to maximum wash time, and re-wash the one towel again, in the same cold bleachy water. (Hot/warm water tend to cause the breakdown of the bleach into its component parts, rendering the solution less "disinfectant", and liberates very smelly gases into your house – use cold water) Once the washer has washed itself with cold bleach water twice, allow it to go through the rinse cycle, and you "should" be done. Leave the lid in the upright open position, and allow everything to air-dry. Leave the light on over the washer opening all night and all the next day, while the lid is open. Molds and fungi find their most inhospitable "residences" in dry, clean, bleached, lighted, and non-warm areas. Allow a fan to blow into the washer tub all day, for excellent drying, making the place not safe for a germ. If you like, to be extremely sure, you can contact your local distributor for Spartan Chemicals (an AWESOME line of products, and not expensive at all) In your case that would be the Midland Paper Company, in Appleton. Give them a call, make sure they will sell you a couple cans of Steri-Phene (a hospital grade phenolic disinfectant, with outstanding deodorizing capability to boot, and a very pleasant scent – if you buy the "fresh scent" version). It is described as "clean-fresh fragrance", as opposed to the other one, which is described differently. Trust me, this product is unrivaled, and I know this for fact. The product number is 6081. I buy it by the case, but have bought a can or two many times from the local distributor. Do not buy the "Spring breeze" version of this. The one you want is a red and white can, with red cap, and says, in BLUE letters on the front, "Clean…Fresh Fragrance". When your washer (and dryer interior) are completely rinsed of any bleach, and have been dry for over 24 hours, spray the entire interior and all around lid hinges, various other areas in the entry to your washer with this spray, till they are visibly wet. Allow the product to air-dry, do not wipe off. TB-Cide is also an excellent disinfection aerosol, but is not as well-fragranced as Steri-Phene. Do not (DO NOT!) use your dryer until all of the disinfectant spray has This company makes an excellent, top-quality line of cleaning products for industrial and healthcare applications, and their distributors are also an excellent source of information. A few of their other products which I consider indispensable are "Spar-creme" liquid scouring creme, shines metal, and makes the bottom of copper pots look brand new in about one minute. "CDC-10" – Product number 3220 (by the gallon, but sprayed/applied from quart sprayers) – an incredible bathrom cleaner – kills all bacteria in only 5 minutes, instead of the conventional 10 minute kill time. Amazing deodorization capability too. Totally excellent and amazing product. "SC-200" = product number 2200 – a rather caustic (pH-13.6 undiluted) cleaner that will clean a barbeque grill or a greasy mess like it was no big deal at all. I have yet to see any product that worked as well, much less any better, and it’s only like 12 bucks a gallon. They recommend diluting it at 4 to 12 ounces per gallon of water, but I cheat, I just pour some on a wet rag, and apply. It does contain 2-butoxyethanol (butyl) and sodium hydroxide, as well as nonyl phenol ethoxylate and sodium xylene sulfonate, which are all categorized as hazardous ingredients by the United States Environmental Protection Agency. No household should be without it. It must NEVER, NEVER be accessible to children, NEVER. Always wear gloves (prefer elbow length) when using this product. It is definitely a corrosive alkaloid. Get an MSDS on SC-200 if you buy a gallon, and read it. Awesome cleaning results though, in a fraction of the time you’d spend using the crap they’ll sell you in W**** or the grocery store (the most expensive way to buy cleaners by the way, in a grocery store). SC-200 is not a granola-girl product – but who cares? The house must sparkle, and I must not spend all day on that pursuit. Check out www.spartanchemical.com Am I possibly a little manic on steroids? I’ll let you be the judge, but I have given you some EXCELLENT information, which I have tested against other industrial products for years, and these recommendations are rock-solid. Gary RN (and industrial/healthcare hygiene/sanitation/infection control expert) It does matter if they sit in the washer, especially if it’s warm, they are clean but they aren’t sterile microbes will grow. I don’t have a problem with odd smelling towels. My bath towels are

Response:

Other clothes never seem to have a problem for some reason, it just always seems to be the heaiver towels that have a problem… I do use the largest cycle available with extra rinse…. I can try less towels…. jamie

Response:

Unless your towels are filthy, I’d use LESS than what they recommend, for soap. Towels are normally used to dry us off after a shower, they’re not dirty really. 1/2 a capful of soap – plenty. No fabric softener, EVER.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hmm.. I use the normal amout of soap, because I am afarid of overdoing it and having the cartoon like room full of soap… Maybe I will try some more soap… thanks…

Response:

Hmm.. I use the normal amout of soap, because I am afarid of overdoing it and having the cartoon like room full of soap… Maybe I will try some more soap… thanks…

Oh, now that’s just one of those petty annoyances you simply DON’T NEED in life. You shouldn’t need a lot of soap for towels, but no harm in trying. You might also try a heavy duty cycle, if you have one. Or try putting only a few towels in the washer and setting it on "large load", that really would be my first guess — too many towels, not enough water. How do your other clothes smell? Mason Barge "If this is coffee, please bring me some tea. If this is tea, please bring me some coffee." — Abraham Lincoln

Response:

Hmm.. I use the normal amout of soap, because I am afarid of overdoing it and having the cartoon like room full of soap… Maybe I will try some more soap… thanks…

Response:

Hi gary, Yes, I am deffinatly amused by your entire post. First off, that is a great idea about really cleaning out the washer really well. I cleaned the top and stuff not too long ago, but didnt think that much about the inside, since that is always "washed". I am going to go start the washing process shortly on my washer as you suggested. I do have some commercial disenfectant also. I get most stuff from www.teschchemical.com in menasha WI. I have purchased cod from midland before with one of my old business, but they were really iffy just selling me paper without like 16 referances, even on a COD account, so I dont know if the local midland is just really anal or what, I just remember they were a PIA, when I purchased things from them. Perhaps I am not always as dilgiant as I would like to think about changin the wash to the dryer on time….. I will have to watch this and make sure I promptly move it from the washer to dryer… Also you Brought up a new point that I am going to a start a new thread on.. Very important!!!! Thanks so much as always! I love your suggestions!!! Jamie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I forgot a couple things. SC-200 is listed as "for industrial use only" (although they’ve sold me many gallons) – just get an MSDS every time. Know that the product is probably if not definitely FATAL IF SWALLOWED, and do *whatever you have to do* to ensure that no child ever, ever gets their hands on a bottle of it. It makes the towels useless for what they were designed to do. Addicted to fabric softener for your towels? Try not using it for an entire month, and tell me that you didn’t notice that they were TON’s more effective in drying your body after a shower. No FABRIC SOFTENER! NO WIRE HANGERS !!!!!!! Also, you can use 1/4 of a cup of bleach. The one cup thing does wear out your cloth items after a while. The proponents of the one-cup method will often counter (effectively) with, "Well, Gary, by the time I have ‘worn out’ my kitchen towels, I was probably sick of them anyway, and wanted new ones, so who cares?" which was hard to argue against. According to Steven Covey, "The Main thing, is to keep the main thing the main thing." I have failed this principle miserably, but possibly given some other information, perhaps about products, perhaps about my state of mind, likely both. Who cares, it didn’t cost ya anything, and if it amused you, then I’m pleased. Gary I mostly agree with Jessica. You must NOT allow your towels to sit in the washer while wet, because they grow molds, and smell "funny" even after having been dried. Wash, then put in dryer within 22.5 minutes. Use a decent detergent, like Tide clear, or All clear. If they are smelly and nasty, by all means do use some Clorox 2. You generally don’t have to use that much detergent for towels, because they usually aren’t that dirty (you dry your "just washed" body with them, after showering, how dirty can they be?) You can also add a cup of ammonia to the wash water - buy cheap ammonia, it’s all the same. Although "parson’s clear ammonia" the blue colored one, for washing glass smells the best, in my opinion. I do not use liquid chlorine bleach on anything, due to it’s strong oxidizing power, which tends to wear out clothing, or any fabrics it touches over the years. If something is especially disgusting or filthy (cat urine/feces residue on a towel, then either throw it away – my personal choice – or use liquid chlorine bleach in the wash water. 97.453 percent of people who have this smelly towel problem washed their towels just fine, and then left them overnight, and threw them in the dryer the next morning, or afternoon. Wash, then dry – no delay – I almost guarantee you will solve your entire problem. While on the subject, many people have funky washers, due to all the various soap residues, smears of fabric softeners, general dirt, etc. Here is your next "fairly easy" project, that yields pleasing results. Get a bottle of Clorox Clean Up. It is a spray bottle, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you NOT EVER spray it, EVER. Take the sprayer unit off, and wipe down the entirety of the lid on your washer (top first) then inside, use liberal (dripping off cloth) amount on the cloth when you POUR the product onto the cloth. Do NOT spray it !!!! DO NOT! Then, wait about 15 minutes, for the product to attack, then take a toothbrush, or other suitable smaller brush, and scrub all the gook and crud and mold (which you can’t see, but it’s there) We’re talking inside lid, by the hinge, all on the surface of the inside lid, any dispensers (often removable) for bleach or fabric softener or detergent. Just clean the HELL out of it. Rinse brush several times in hot water in kitchen sink during this procedure, as it will become saturated with thick soap residues, rendering it less effective. Again, allow the product to sit for 5 minutes, when you feel you have cleaned it well in everywhere you could reach. Rescrub any places that may have possible dirt/scum. Use hot water from a saucepan to rinse the inside lid, hinges, all around the interior of the entry-way into your washer. Any uncleaned places will be disclosed! Scrub again. Repeat rinse. Now, if you really want to attack these odd smells, get some Clorox brand (recommend "fresh scent") bleach, and add 1 1/2 cups to the FILLED washer, which you have filled with COLD water. Run the washer on high agitate (like you would for non-delicate clothing, or towels. If you have a towel you don’t care that much about, throw it in (it it’s clean!) Before the rinse cycle starts, stop the washer, and let it sit for 30 minutes, start a timer to remind you – you do not want to let that sit overnight by accident. After 30 minutes, re-set the dial to maximum wash time, and re-wash the one towel again, in the same cold bleachy water. (Hot/warm water tend to cause the breakdown of the bleach into its component parts, rendering the solution less "disinfectant", and liberates very smelly gases into your house – use cold water) Once the washer has washed itself with cold bleach water twice, allow it to go through the rinse cycle, and you "should" be done. Leave the lid in the upright open position, and allow everything to air-dry. Leave the light on over the washer opening all night and all the next day, while the lid is open. Molds and fungi find their most inhospitable "residences" in dry, clean, bleached, lighted, and non-warm areas. Allow a fan to blow into the washer tub all day, for excellent drying, making the place not safe for a germ. If you like, to be extremely sure, you can contact your local distributor for Spartan Chemicals (an AWESOME line of products, and not expensive at all) In your case that would be the Midland Paper Company, in Appleton. Give them a call, make sure they will sell you a couple cans of Steri-Phene (a hospital grade phenolic disinfectant, with outstanding deodorizing capability to boot, and a very pleasant scent – if you buy the "fresh scent" version). It is described as "clean-fresh fragrance", as opposed to the other one, which is described differently. Trust me, this product is unrivaled, and I know this for fact. The product number is 6081. I buy it by the case, but have bought a can or two many times from the local distributor. Do not buy the "Spring breeze" version of this. The one you want is a red and white can, with red cap, and says, in BLUE letters on the front, "Clean…Fresh Fragrance". When your washer (and dryer interior) are completely rinsed of any bleach, and have been dry for over 24 hours, spray the entire interior and all around lid hinges, various other areas in the entry to your washer with this spray, till they are visibly wet. Allow the product to air-dry, do not wipe off. TB-Cide is also an excellent disinfection aerosol, but is not as well-fragranced as Steri-Phene. Do not (DO NOT!) use your dryer until all of the disinfectant spray has This company makes an excellent, top-quality line of cleaning products for industrial and healthcare applications, and their distributors are also an excellent source of information. A few of their other products which I consider indispensable are "Spar-creme" liquid scouring creme, shines metal, and makes the bottom of copper pots look brand new in about one minute. "CDC-10" – Product number 3220 (by the gallon, but sprayed/applied from quart sprayers) – an incredible bathrom cleaner – kills all bacteria in only 5 minutes, instead of the conventional 10 minute kill time. Amazing deodorization capability too. Totally excellent and amazing product. "SC-200" = product number 2200 – a rather caustic (pH-13.6 undiluted) cleaner that will clean a barbeque grill or a greasy mess like it was no big deal at all. I have yet to see any product that worked as well, much less any better, and it’s only like 12 bucks a gallon. They recommend diluting it at 4 to 12 ounces per gallon of water, but I cheat, I just pour some on a wet rag, and apply. It does contain 2-butoxyethanol (butyl) and sodium hydroxide, as well as nonyl phenol ethoxylate and sodium xylene sulfonate, which are all categorized as hazardous ingredients by the United States Environmental Protection Agency. No household should

Response:

HI, This will sound weird, but as you know, I recently moved out my long term X-girlfriend. I can not seem to get my bath towels to smell nice and clean and fresh on a consistant basis. I use soap, hot water, sometimes color safe bleach, sometimes, I try baking soda, and it never seems to be consistant, basically when i go to use one of the damn towels, I often find it has a oder that I find offensive. Any suggestions for getting more consistant results? I always let them dry well in the dryer, and I noramlly dont let them sit in the washer a long time once they are done, but what should it really matter anyway, they should be clean when they are done in the wash, right??? I know this sounds weird, but I hate having these bad smelling towels!! j

Response:

It does matter if they sit in the washer, especially if it’s warm, they are clean but they aren’t sterile microbes will grow. I don’t have a problem with odd smelling towels. My bath towels are washed in cold water with liquid detergent (make sure you are using enough!), then right into the dryer until they are completely dry. I don’t use fabric softener sheets as they effect the absorbancy of the cotton fibres. For kitchen towels its the same deal but with a cup of bleach added. Jess

Response:

I mostly agree with Jessica. You must NOT allow your towels to sit in the washer while wet, because they grow molds, and smell "funny" even after having been dried. Wash, then put in dryer within 22.5 minutes. Use a decent detergent, like Tide clear, or All clear. If they are smelly and nasty, by all means do use some Clorox 2. You generally don’t have to use that much detergent for towels, because they usually aren’t that dirty (you dry your "just washed" body with them, after showering, how dirty can they be?) You can also add a cup of ammonia to the wash water - buy cheap ammonia, it’s all the same. Although "parson’s clear ammonia" the blue colored one, for washing glass smells the best, in my opinion. I do not use liquid chlorine bleach on anything, due to it’s strong oxidizing power, which tends to wear out clothing, or any fabrics it touches over the years. If something is especially disgusting or filthy (cat urine/feces residue on a towel, then either throw it away – my personal choice – or use liquid chlorine bleach in the wash water. 97.453 percent of people who have this smelly towel problem washed their towels just fine, and then left them overnight, and threw them in the dryer the next morning, or afternoon. Wash, then dry – no delay – I almost guarantee you will solve your entire problem. While on the subject, many people have funky washers, due to all the various soap residues, smears of fabric softeners, general dirt, etc. Here is your next "fairly easy" project, that yields pleasing results. Get a bottle of Clorox Clean Up. It is a spray bottle, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you NOT EVER spray it, EVER. Take the sprayer unit off, and wipe down the entirety of the lid on your washer (top first) then inside, use liberal (dripping off cloth) amount on the cloth when you POUR the product onto the cloth. Do NOT spray it !!!! DO NOT! Then, wait about 15 minutes, for the product to attack, then take a toothbrush, or other suitable smaller brush, and scrub all the gook and crud and mold (which you can’t see, but it’s there) We’re talking inside lid, by the hinge, all on the surface of the inside lid, any dispensers (often removable) for bleach or fabric softener or detergent. Just clean the HELL out of it. Rinse brush several times in hot water in kitchen sink during this procedure, as it will become saturated with thick soap residues, rendering it less effective. Again, allow the product to sit for 5 minutes, when you feel you have cleaned it well in everywhere you could reach. Rescrub any places that may have possible dirt/scum. Use hot water from a saucepan to rinse the inside lid, hinges, all around the interior of the entry-way into your washer. Any uncleaned places will be disclosed! Scrub again. Repeat rinse. Now, if you really want to attack these odd smells, get some Clorox brand (recommend "fresh scent") bleach, and add 1 1/2 cups to the FILLED washer, which you have filled with COLD water. Run the washer on high agitate (like you would for non-delicate clothing, or towels. If you have a towel you don’t care that much about, throw it in (it it’s clean!) Before the rinse cycle starts, stop the washer, and let it sit for 30 minutes, start a timer to remind you – you do not want to let that sit overnight by accident. After 30 minutes, re-set the dial to maximum wash time, and re-wash the one towel again, in the same cold bleachy water. (Hot/warm water tend to cause the breakdown of the bleach into its component parts, rendering the solution less "disinfectant", and liberates very smelly gases into your house – use cold water) Once the washer has washed itself with cold bleach water twice, allow it to go through the rinse cycle, and you "should" be done. Leave the lid in the upright open position, and allow everything to air-dry. Leave the light on over the washer opening all night and all the next day, while the lid is open. Molds and fungi find their most inhospitable "residences" in dry, clean, bleached, lighted, and non-warm areas. Allow a fan to blow into the washer tub all day, for excellent drying, making the place not safe for a germ. If you like, to be extremely sure, you can contact your local distributor for Spartan Chemicals (an AWESOME line of products, and not expensive at all) In your case that would be the Midland Paper Company, in Appleton. Give them a call, make sure they will sell you a couple cans of Steri-Phene (a hospital grade phenolic disinfectant, with outstanding deodorizing capability to boot, and a very pleasant scent – if you buy the "fresh scent" version). It is described as "clean-fresh fragrance", as opposed to the other one, which is described differently. Trust me, this product is unrivaled, and I know this for fact. The product number is 6081. I buy it by the case, but have bought a can or two many times from the local distributor. Do not buy the "Spring breeze" version of this. The one you want is a red and white can, with red cap, and says, in BLUE letters on the front, "Clean…Fresh Fragrance". When your washer (and dryer interior) are completely rinsed of any bleach, and have been dry for over 24 hours, spray the entire interior and all around lid hinges, various other areas in the entry to your washer with this spray, till they are visibly wet. Allow the product to air-dry, do not wipe off. TB-Cide is also an excellent disinfection aerosol, but is not as well-fragranced as Steri-Phene. Do not (DO NOT!) use your dryer until all of the disinfectant spray has been This company makes an excellent, top-quality line of cleaning products for industrial and healthcare applications, and their distributors are also an excellent source of information. A few of their other products which I consider indispensable are "Spar-creme" liquid scouring creme, shines metal, and makes the bottom of copper pots look brand new in about one minute. "CDC-10" – Product number 3220 (by the gallon, but sprayed/applied from quart sprayers) – an incredible bathrom cleaner – kills all bacteria in only 5 minutes, instead of the conventional 10 minute kill time. Amazing deodorization capability too. Totally excellent and amazing product. "SC-200" = product number 2200 – a rather caustic (pH-13.6 undiluted) cleaner that will clean a barbeque grill or a greasy mess like it was no big deal at all. I have yet to see any product that worked as well, much less any better, and it’s only like 12 bucks a gallon. They recommend diluting it at 4 to 12 ounces per gallon of water, but I cheat, I just pour some on a wet rag, and apply. It does contain 2-butoxyethanol (butyl) and sodium hydroxide, as well as nonyl phenol ethoxylate and sodium xylene sulfonate, which are all categorized as hazardous ingredients by the United States Environmental Protection Agency. No household should be without it. It must NEVER, NEVER be accessible to children, NEVER. Always wear gloves (prefer elbow length) when using this product. It is definitely a corrosive alkaloid. Get an MSDS on SC-200 if you buy a gallon, and read it. Awesome cleaning results though, in a fraction of the time you’d spend using the crap they’ll sell you in W**** or the grocery store (the most expensive way to buy cleaners by the way, in a grocery store). SC-200 is not a granola-girl product – but who cares? The house must sparkle, and I must not spend all day on that pursuit. Check out www.spartanchemical.com Am I possibly a little manic on steroids? I’ll let you be the judge, but I have given you some EXCELLENT information, which I have tested against other industrial products for years, and these recommendations are rock-solid. Gary RN (and industrial/healthcare hygiene/sanitation/infection control expert)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It does matter if they sit in the washer, especially if it’s warm, they are clean but they aren’t sterile microbes will grow. I don’t have a problem with odd smelling towels. My bath towels are washed in cold water with liquid detergent (make sure you are using enough!), then right into the dryer until they are completely dry. I don’t use fabric softener sheets as they effect the absorbancy of the cotton fibres. For kitchen towels its the same deal but with a cup of bleach added. Jess

Response:

TiO2

admin — Tue, 01 Nov 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

hi, Is there any onine shop to purchase Titanium Dioxide TiO2 P 25 Degussa.Please send me the lik. Thanks, Asad

Response:

hi, Is there any onine shop to purchase Titanium Dioxide TiO2 P 25 Degussa.Please send me the lik. Thanks, Asad Hmm, Some one will be knocking at your door soon. Tony

As most informed people know, it’s the primary ingredient for making white paint. http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/ jk

Response:

Hi, Thanks much for your reply. Here I require TiO2 P 25 that is manufactured my Degussa but they do not have any selling corner in their sile and I am search another location. I know it is also use in paper, paint, textile industry. But it is special for that I am searching. Thanks, Asad

Response:

Try sci.chem – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, Thanks much for your reply. Here I require TiO2 P 25 that is manufactured my Degussa but they do not have any selling corner in their sile and I am search another location. I know it is also use in paper, paint, textile industry. But it is special for that I am searching. Thanks, Asad

Response:

Catalog returns advice

admin — Tue, 19 Jul 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I want to go this weekend to pick up 2 or 3 pallets of catalog return or shelf pull items for sale on ebay. I live in central Florida. The wholesalers in southern Florida seem a little more expensive than Southern Alabama or N.C. I would really appreciate advice if someone would recommend a place in southeast US where I can drive with my trailer and purchase 2 or 3 pallets; and what type items they would buy. I’m thinking about consumer electronics. I’m uncertain about household such as blankets or comforters, or clothing. Thanks in advance for any advice, Joe in Florida

Response:

Early on we were luckier than you Joe. We only had to drive 18 miles to see what crap the stuff was and run like hell.

Response:

Joe, if this stuff is "returns" and being sold by the pallet, who in their right mind would want it…..except bottom feeders looking for a bargain, who’ll neg you at the drop of a hat if they don’t get a "like new" item for ten cents (despite whatever the auction says)? Sorry to be blunt, but if that crap was worth anything, the person trying to shove it off on you, would sell it themselves and make more money. Kris

Response:

Wait, so you criticize others for not answering the question he asked.. Only to ask him why he doesn’t know the answer to his own question? Good think you’re here to save the day, huh? MP- — "Learning is a behavior that results from consequences." B.F. Skinner

Response:

I want to go this weekend to pick up 2 or 3 pallets of catalog return

Dude, like no way you want to do this…instead here is what you wanna bust out (trust me, it’ll be better): Either tape or pin a whole bunch of 100 dollar bills to yourself, and then put on one of those big tall "Dr. Suess" hats and go to the worst crack-junkie whore infested neighborhood you can find. Walk around, shouting "Hey ya’ll…check this…I got freeking money commin outta my damn old self." Later, in the hospital, you’ll look back and think "wow, I’m really glad I did that crazy-ass money walk thing that guy Randy from the internet told me about, instead of buying those pallets of returns". No, please…don’t thank me…it’s my gift. -Randy

Response:

Excuse me, but we "bashers" DID answer his question. He was asking what to buy. We told him. NONE of it. Kris

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to go this weekend to pick up 2 or 3 pallets of catalog return Dude, like no way you want to do this…instead here is what you wanna bust out (trust me, it’ll be better): Either tape or pin a whole bunch of 100 dollar bills to yourself, and then put on one of those big tall "Dr. Suess" hats and go to the worst crack-junkie whore infested neighborhood you can find. Walk around, shouting "Hey ya’ll…check this…I got freeking money commin outta my damn old self." Later, in the hospital, you’ll look back and think "wow, I’m really glad I did that crazy-ass money walk thing that guy Randy from the internet told me about, instead of buying those pallets of returns". No, please…don’t thank me…it’s my gift. -Randy

LOL! That’s the best of the bunch! Any voices of experience advising our inquirer to run from returns? I don’t disagree with the advice, I’m just wondering who’s gotten burned.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to go this weekend to pick up 2 or 3 pallets of catalog return or shelf pull items for sale on ebay. I live in central Florida. The wholesalers in southern Florida seem a little more expensive than Southern Alabama or N.C. I would really appreciate advice if someone would recommend a place in southeast US where I can drive with my trailer and purchase 2 or 3 pallets; and what type items they would buy. I’m thinking about consumer electronics. I’m uncertain about household such as blankets or comforters, or clothing. Thanks in advance for any advice, Joe in Florida Joe, if this stuff is "returns" and being sold by the pallet, who in their right mind would want it…..except bottom feeders looking for a bargain, who’ll neg you at the drop of a hat if they don’t get a "like new" item for ten cents (despite whatever the auction says)? Sorry to be blunt, but if that crap was worth anything, the person trying to shove it off on you, would sell it themselves and make more money.

I don’t know…my friend used to work at a catalog return place and the clothes that people returned were usually in saleable condition. Just that the season had changed and the outlet store was overflowing. We used to buy shopping bags full of stuff for .50. I wouldn’t touch their electronics with a 10 foot pole though. A

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I want to go this weekend to pick up 2 or 3 pallets of catalog return or shelf pull items for sale on ebay. I live in central Florida. The wholesalers in southern Florida seem a little more expensive than Southern Alabama or N.C. I would really appreciate advice if someone would recommend a place in southeast US where I can drive with my trailer and purchase 2 or 3 pallets; and what type items they would buy. I’m thinking about consumer electronics. I’m uncertain about household such as blankets or comforters, or clothing. Thanks in advance for any advice, Joe in Florida Joe, if this stuff is "returns" and being sold by the pallet, who in their right mind would want it…..except bottom feeders looking for a bargain, who’ll neg you at the drop of a hat if they don’t get a "like new" item for ten cents (despite whatever the auction says)? Sorry to be blunt, but if that crap was worth anything, the person trying to shove it off on you, would sell it themselves and make more money. I don’t know…my friend used to work at a catalog return place and the clothes that people returned were usually in saleable condition. Just that the season had changed and the outlet store was overflowing. We used to buy shopping bags full of stuff for .50. I wouldn’t touch their electronics with a 10 foot pole though. A

…and that’s the stuff he wants. IF I were thinking of doing something like that, I’d go for the comforters and other textiles… hoping that they weren’t covered in dog blood or something. I can’t buy for resale, unless I can touch and examine it. Come to think about it, someone should start offering 10-foot poles on eBay. Don? Kris

Response:

Come to think about it, someone should start offering 10-foot poles on eBay.

Shipping is problematic. Local pick up only.

Response:

Catalog returns are almost always bad news and are usually an extremely poor source of eBay items for sale. Problems include… (1) each pallet item has at least one problem. (2) the good stuff has long ago been higraded. (3) much of the product mix will be too bulky, heavy, or low in value. (4) There is no way to gain the needed 30:1 eBay sell/buy ratio. (5) Other parts of the product mix will be oddball or undesirable (6) Problems may be subtle and cause buyer grief. See the various tutorials at http://www.tinaja.com/auct01.asp Especially http://www.tinaja.com/glib/ebaysell.pdf — Many thanks, Don Lancaster Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552 Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

EVERYBODY, of course. But see http://www.tinaja.com/glib/moreebay.pdf for specifics. — Many thanks, Don Lancaster Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552 Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

Come to think about it, someone should start offering 10-foot poles on eBay. Shipping is problematic. Local pick up only.

The Cuyahuga manufacturing company once offered a fly swatter with a ten foot extendable handle. And thus there was no insect that could fly above cuyahuga’s swatter. — Many thanks, Don Lancaster Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552 Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

Come to think about it, someone should start offering 10-foot poles on eBay.

Here’s the deluxe model. — Crazy Dog wfh at crazy hyphen dog dot fsnet dot co dot uk

Response:

Come to think about it, someone should start offering 10-foot poles on eBay. Here’s the deluxe model.

Ooops – this time /with/ the item number…. 7169595008 — Crazy Dog wfh at crazy hyphen dog dot fsnet dot co dot uk

Response:

Wait, so you criticize others for not answering the question he asked.. Only to ask him why he doesn’t know the answer to his own question? Good think you’re here to save the day, huh?

It was a legit question, and at least I didn’t bash his original post. But thankfully, we have YOU around to…umm…..serve no purpose whatsoever. ef

Response:

Wait, so you criticize others for not answering the question he asked.. Only to ask him why he doesn’t know the answer to his own question? Good think you’re here to save the day, huh? It was a legit question, and at least I didn’t bash his original post. But thankfully, we have YOU around to…umm…..serve no purpose whatsoever.

Dear Kettle: Who cares if it was a legit question? You didn’t answer his question, though you certainly criticized others for not answering it. MP- — "Learning is a behavior that results from consequences." B.F. Skinner

Response:

… But thankfully, we have YOU around to…umm…..serve no purpose whatsoever.

Hey! I’m here to serve no purpose whatsoever. I demand you stop referring to someone else as "serving no purpose". There are serious penalties for not saying what you’re not saying. c

Response:

Come to think about it, someone should start offering 10-foot poles on eBay.

I’ve got one I’d love to sell. It cost me about $70 30 years ago. It’s called a "Jim Pole". Big clamp at the bottom and a pulley built in at the top. Actually it’s a 10 foot aluminum pipe. They’re used for putting up sections of radio tower. I’m too old and fat to climb any more. — 01010111 10110110 11000101 01110100 00100000 01100110 11111011 11110001 11110001 11111111 00100000 10100111 11111111 01101101 11011111 11110101 10100011 10100111 00100000 10111111 10111111 10111111

Response:

I see the bashers have already begun bashing your intentions. (I don’t recall you asking anyone’s opinion on whether it was a good idea, just where you could go.) Unfortunately I can’t help either, but I am curious. How is it you know the wholesalers in AL and NC are cheaper, yet you don’t know where to go? Wait, so you criticize others for not answering the question he asked.. Only to ask him why he doesn’t know the answer to his own question? Good think you’re here to save the day, huh?

Response:

Wait, so you criticize others for not answering the question he asked.. Only to ask him why he doesn’t know the answer to his own question? Good think you’re here to save the day, huh? It was a legit question, and at least I didn’t bash his original post. But thankfully, we have YOU around to…umm…..serve no purpose whatsoever.

Of course he has a purpose. The fact that it’s incomprehensible to *you* is irrelevant. Mangus’s current purpose: to point out EF’s inconsistencies. — Ty Who is mostly just a slightly skewed Donna Reed A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government. –Edward Abbey

Response:

It was a legit question, and at least I didn’t bash his original post. But thankfully, we have YOU around to…umm…..serve no purpose whatsoever. Of course he has a purpose. The fact that it’s incomprehensible to *you* is irrelevant. Mangus’s current purpose: to point out EF’s inconsistencies.

In the world of Six Sigma, we call this low-hanging fruit. MP- — "Learning is a behavior that results from consequences." B.F. Skinner

Response:

I see the bashers have already begun bashing your intentions.

They’re just jealous. They wish that they’d come up with the name "Darth Ferret" themselves.

Response:

Mangus’s current purpose: to point out EF’s inconsistencies. In the world of Six Sigma, we call this low-hanging fruit.

If I lived in the world of Six Sigma, I wouldn’t admit it. Load of corporate common-sense crapola. Now, go back to reading your copy of "Who Moved My Cheese". ef

Response:

mental patterns

admin — Mon, 13 Jun 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

You sound dreadful. See you Doc. My dose was reduced to a 3.3 and I been SVr since shot #5. My thyroid went to pot, and I could not tolerate the regular dose as it was a sledge hammer in my head type pain and frozen pain, it was beyond a migraine headache.. A dose reduction may be in order. Tell the Dr. about vision stuff thing you have going on. You may need some anti stress drugs. Are you on anti Ds Hope you feel better soon. Juanita

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -kjoh wrote: > Hi all. > I’m midway into week 17 of tx. I had a 4-week break at week 12 > because of bad side effects. I want to describe my mental reactions to tx > in case anybody else can identify. It may help. The wee hours are the > worst. When I wake up I go into a tailspin of bleak thoughts that > don’t pass for several hours, then I get drousy again and hopefully > doze off. My head is fairly clear and positive until later in the > morning when I simply can’t think in a forward direction. If I > don’t keep moving or working on some small project I get idiot tune > bits stuck in my head and wallow in despair. Tremors add to the problem. > Usually I become unable to read or construct a paragraph without alot of > difficulty. I get tunnel vision and feel like I’m looking through > black vinyl pipe. I think this may be the morning dose of ribavirin > overwhelming my brain. I seem to get a bit better in the evening. > During the first 12 weeks I had wicked bouts of riba- rage and anxiety. I > let it all go because it was exhausting me. Without the good people on > this link I would have been clueless about that phenomenon. What I do: > Take 15 mg lexapro. Split the ribavirin dose up throughout the day. > Remind myself that it’s looking like a daily pattern that I might be > able to work with. Don’t be bewildered. Decide before I get up what > the absolute minimum priorities for the day are. Make phone calls, handle > medical bureaucracy issues. Concentrate hard on listening to acoustic tunes > and riffs. Music has always been like math to me. Hanging with Mark > Knopfler and native american flute currently. Drink large amounts of > chamomile and green tea. Have. my cat lay on my liver and purr. I see > my doc tomorrow and find out if/how much my blood tests are awry. I am > going to ask him about a dose reduction. Frankly I am concerned about > losing my marbles. Any body else noticing daily brain cycles like this? > Any information available about SVR with a reduced dose? I weigh 125lb > now, down 15 from beginning of tx. > Get a grip  > KJ > I tell you, Chickadee > I am afraid of people > who cannot cry > Tears left unshed > Turn to poison > In the ducts > Alice Walker

Hi kj, Hang in there. I have had similar experiences. Early on in tx I started antid’s. They took a while to work. I thought they weren’t going to. But the depression is much better now. I’m trying to deal with the brainfog and forgetfullnes alongside with my thought processes going a million miles an hour.I’m using quilting and painting much the same as you are using music. I have apprx 6 projects going at once. There is always something able to hold my focus for a bit. I also practice allowing myself to just "be" where I am. It doesn’t work everytime but I do beat myself up less. Peace, Mary Ann

Response:

On 14 Jun 2005 09:51:37 -0700, "pajaritaflora" wrote: >Grey, >Did you get my personal email to you? Or did it get lost in cyberspace? >The email I use for this group does work to get me directly. >It’s supposed to get cooler in a couple hours! phew! mixin heat with tx >fever s*cks. >MaryAnn

Sorry MaryAnn, I didn’t get your email. Hope you saved a copy? Most likely you got burned by the crude but apparently effective anti-spam feature in what appears as my email address. You have to delete the NOSPAM and use what’s left to get to me. I get virtually no spam email on that account so it’s still usable. But wasn’t the last week freakin’ unbelievable? I really don’t "do" high heat plus drenching humidity well at all – tx or no tx. The humidity was so awful there was a constant sheet of standing water on my garage floor – up until tonite. Then we had a 35F drop in just three hours this afternoon, accompanied by a similar drop in humidity. Phew. Thank goodness! "Change" better be good ‘cuz there’s a lot of it around Cheers /greyhackles

Response:

From a mental point of view, it sounds normal. Don’t worry about it as long as you’re not suicidal.. Seriously, tell your doc about that tomorrow. What could be a very serious side is your visual problems. You absolutely MUST mention your tunnel vision to the doc. That could indicate serious damage occurring inside your eye. Elmo http://community.webtv.net/elmoemerson/DocElmosHepFile http://community.webtv.net/elmoemerson/TheFamilyAlbum

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:51:49 -0400, "kjoh" wrote: >Hi all. >I’m midway into week 17 of tx. I had a 4-week break at week 12 >because of bad side effects. I want to describe my mental reactions to tx >in case anybody else can identify. It may help. The wee hours are the >worst. When I wake up I go into a tailspin of bleak thoughts that >don’t pass for several hours, then I get drousy again and hopefully >doze off. My head is fairly clear and positive until later in the >morning when I simply can’t think in a forward direction. If I >don’t keep moving or working on some small project I get idiot tune >bits stuck in my head and wallow in despair. Tremors add to the problem. >Usually I become unable to read or construct a paragraph without alot of >difficulty. I get tunnel vision and feel like I’m looking through >black vinyl pipe. I think this may be the morning dose of ribavirin >overwhelming my brain. I seem to get a bit better in the evening. >During the first 12 weeks I had wicked bouts of riba- rage and anxiety. I >let it all go because it was exhausting me. Without the good people on >this link I would have been clueless about that phenomenon. What I do: >Take 15 mg lexapro. Split the ribavirin dose up throughout the day. >Remind myself that it’s looking like a daily pattern that I might be >able to work with. Don’t be bewildered. Decide before I get up what >the absolute minimum priorities for the day are. Make phone calls, handle >medical bureaucracy issues. Concentrate hard on listening to acoustic tunes >and riffs. Music has always been like math to me. Hanging with Mark >Knopfler and native american flute currently. Drink large amounts of >chamomile and green tea. Have. my cat lay on my liver and purr. I see >my doc tomorrow and find out if/how much my blood tests are awry. I am >going to ask him about a dose reduction. Frankly I am concerned about >losing my marbles. Any body else noticing daily brain cycles like this? >Any information available about SVR with a reduced dose? I weigh 125lb >now, down 15 from beginning of tx.

Been there, still there, still battling the same symptoms, and I’m physically wearing myself out constantly finding small tasks within my limited capabilities to get a mental grip on. Tx-head brain fog is real, tremors are real, vision stuff – that can be bad. But here’s the irony: you probably won’t remember more than a *quarter* of what you wrote, and yet it is information that your doctor(s) may consider important to know. At the very least they might want to change your anti-Ds – type and/or dosage. So do yourself a HUGE favor: print out the body of your post and take it with you when you go see your doc. It’s the only way my docs have a clue what’s up with me aside from the blood work – which doesn’t show Jack about what’s going on in your head, nerves or eyes… Hopefully easier days are ahead for you. Hang in there and kick viroid butt! Cheers /greyhackles

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -greyhackles wrote: > On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:51:49 -0400, "kjoh" wrote: > >Hi all. > >I’m midway into week 17 of tx. I had a 4-week break at week 12 > >because of bad side effects. I want to describe my mental reactions to tx > >in case anybody else can identify. It may help. The wee hours are the > >worst. When I wake up I go into a tailspin of bleak thoughts that > >don’t pass for several hours, then I get drousy again and hopefully > >doze off. My head is fairly clear and positive until later in the > >morning when I simply can’t think in a forward direction. If I > >don’t keep moving or working on some small project I get idiot tune > >bits stuck in my head and wallow in despair. Tremors add to the problem. > >Usually I become unable to read or construct a paragraph without alot of > >difficulty. I get tunnel vision and feel like I’m looking through > >black vinyl pipe. I think this may be the morning dose of ribavirin > >overwhelming my brain. I seem to get a bit better in the evening. > >During the first 12 weeks I had wicked bouts of riba- rage and anxiety. I > >let it all go because it was exhausting me. Without the good people on > >this link I would have been clueless about that phenomenon. What I do: > >Take 15 mg lexapro. Split the ribavirin dose up throughout the day. > >Remind myself that it’s looking like a daily pattern that I might be > >able to work with. Don’t be bewildered. Decide before I get up what > >the absolute minimum priorities for the day are. Make phone calls, handle > >medical bureaucracy issues. Concentrate hard on listening to acoustic tunes > >and riffs. Music has always been like math to me. Hanging with Mark > >Knopfler and native american flute currently. Drink large amounts of > >chamomile and green tea. Have. my cat lay on my liver and purr. I see > >my doc tomorrow and find out if/how much my blood tests are awry. I am > >going to ask him about a dose reduction. Frankly I am concerned about > >losing my marbles. Any body else noticing daily brain cycles like this? > >Any information available about SVR with a reduced dose? I weigh 125lb > >now, down 15 from beginning of tx. > Been there, still there, still battling the same symptoms, and I’m physically > wearing myself out constantly finding small tasks within my limited > capabilities to get a mental grip on. > Tx-head brain fog is real, tremors are real, vision stuff – that can be bad. > But here’s the irony: you probably won’t remember more than a *quarter* of > what you wrote, and yet it is information that your doctor(s) may consider > important to know. At the very least they might want to change your anti-Ds – > type and/or dosage. > So do yourself a HUGE favor: print out the body of your post and take it with > you when you go see your doc. It’s the only way my docs have a clue what’s up > with me aside from the blood work – which doesn’t show Jack about what’s going > on in your head, nerves or eyes… > Hopefully easier days are ahead for you. Hang in there and kick viroid butt! > Cheers > /greyhackles

Grey, Did you get my personal email to you? Or did it get lost in cyberspace? The email I use for this group does work to get me directly. It’s supposed to get cooler in a couple hours! phew! mixin heat with tx fever s*cks. MaryAnn

Response:

Hi all. I’m midway into week 17 of tx. I had a 4-week break at week 12 because of bad side effects. I want to describe my mental reactions to tx in case anybody else can identify. It may help. The wee hours are the worst. When I wake up I go into a tailspin of bleak thoughts that don’t pass for several hours, then I get drousy again and hopefully doze off. My head is fairly clear and positive until later in the morning when I simply can’t think in a forward direction. If I don’t keep moving or working on some small project I get idiot tune bits stuck in my head and wallow in despair. Tremors add to the problem. Usually I become unable to read or construct a paragraph without alot of difficulty. I get tunnel vision and feel like I’m looking through black vinyl pipe. I think this may be the morning dose of ribavirin overwhelming my brain. I seem to get a bit better in the evening. During the first 12 weeks I had wicked bouts of riba- rage and anxiety. I let it all go because it was exhausting me. Without the good people on this link I would have been clueless about that phenomenon. What I do: Take 15 mg lexapro. Split the ribavirin dose up throughout the day. Remind myself that it’s looking like a daily pattern that I might be able to work with. Don’t be bewildered. Decide before I get up what the absolute minimum priorities for the day are. Make phone calls, handle medical bureaucracy issues. Concentrate hard on listening to acoustic tunes and riffs. Music has always been like math to me. Hanging with Mark Knopfler and native american flute currently. Drink large amounts of chamomile and green tea. Have. my cat lay on my liver and purr. I see my doc tomorrow and find out if/how much my blood tests are awry. I am going to ask him about a dose reduction. Frankly I am concerned about losing my marbles. Any body else noticing daily brain cycles like this? Any information available about SVR with a reduced dose? I weigh 125lb now, down 15 from beginning of tx. Get a grip  KJ I tell you, Chickadee I am afraid of people who cannot cry Tears left unshed Turn to poison In the ducts Alice Walker

Response:

Fabric

admin — Sun, 29 May 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

yeah but they’re totally different. mek is like acetone They are both Ketones, as the `-one’ ending indicates. mekp is polyester resin catalyst and is an eye tissue corrosive. Don’t ever spill a full bottle of it in 20L of resin… Don’t ask (in summer too!)

I mixed up a half coke can of polyester resin once. got so hot I couldnt hold it even with gloves.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I know that good results can be achieved with the Poly Fiber process however I’ve also seen some poor results – it seems to be harder to get it right than with Ceconite and Randolph dope, which is what I’d recommend. When it came time to recover the Decathlon we used Classic Aero dope – supposedly equivalent to Randolph. Aviaquip was able to mix the Classic Aero on the spot whereas Randolph colours came by ship from the USA. All are now owned by the same company. Seems that Classic Aero has been discontinued – good as I may get violent if I ever run across the person who sold it to me. Both the Stits and Randolph are mixed by Aviaquip in Melbourne now. You can use polyurethane on top of Stits or Randolph per their STC apparently. I would recommend against that on fabric – it is difficult to repair the finish and will eventually crack and chip off.

the problem is that you will eventually have to repair something on a fabric finish. polyfiber with polytone remains repairable forever. the problem with any dope over polyester fabric is that the dope does not adhere to the polyester and will eventually come away (with about the strength of a 3m post it note’s adhesive) using polyurethane over anything renders it unrepairable. …but hell this isnt a religion to me. use what you like. Stealth Pilot – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – sincere recommendation recover in PolyFiber. use the chemicals as they say to. use polytone paint.

Response:

Thanks for the information – things have changed since I owned an Auster! JD

sincere recommendation recover in PolyFiber. use the chemicals as they say to. use polytone paint. methylethylketone on a rag will wipe off the polytone all the way back to fabric if need be. (use gloves because it soaks through your skin and stuffs up internal organs) the chemicals have worked for me from tins over 12 years old. use new polytack though. polyfiber with polytone paint is repairable for the entire life of the covering. it is wonderful stuff. Aviaquip in melbourne stock it. Stealth Pilot.

Response:

methylethylketone on a rag will wipe off the polytone all the way back to fabric if need be. (use gloves because it soaks through your skin and stuffs up internal organs)

Correct. MEK and MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) are bad buggers of chemicals – not good tucker – be careful.

Response:

methylethylketone on a rag will wipe off the polytone all the way back to fabric if need be. (use gloves because it soaks through your skin and stuffs up internal organs) Correct. MEK and MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) are bad buggers of chemicals – not good tucker – be careful.

yeah but they’re totally different. mek is like acetone mekp is polyester resin catalyst and is an eye tissue corrosive. Stealth Pilot

Response:

I know that good results can be achieved with the Poly Fiber process however I’ve also seen some poor results – it seems to be harder to get it right than with Ceconite and Randolph dope, which is what I’d recommend. When it came time to recover the Decathlon we used Classic Aero dope – supposedly equivalent to Randolph. Aviaquip was able to mix the Classic Aero on the spot whereas Randolph colours came by ship from the USA. All are now owned by the same company. Seems that Classic Aero has been discontinued – good as I may get violent if I ever run across the person who sold it to me. Both the Stits and Randolph are mixed by Aviaquip in Melbourne now. You can use polyurethane on top of Stits or Randolph per their STC apparently. I would recommend against that on fabric – it is difficult to repair the finish and will eventually crack and chip off. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – sincere recommendation recover in PolyFiber. use the chemicals as they say to. use polytone paint.

Response:

You can use polyurethane on top of Stits or Randolph per their STC apparently. I would recommend against that on fabric – it is difficult to repair the finish and will eventually crack and chip off.

Never done it but that is what I expect would happen.

Response:

yeah but they’re totally different. mek is like acetone

They are both Ketones, as the `-one’ ending indicates. mekp is polyester resin catalyst and is an eye tissue corrosive.

Don’t ever spill a full bottle of it in 20L of resin… Don’t ask (in summer too!) — Paul Repacholi 1 Crescent Rd., +61 (08) 9257-1001 Kalamunda. West Australia 6076 comp.os.vms,- The Older, Grumpier Slashdot Raw, Cooked or Well-done, it’s all half baked. EPIC, The Architecture of the future, always has been, always will be.

Response:

Aircraft fabric ala Tiger Moth, Pitts Special, what’s it made of. Thanx.

Response:

Then: http://www.vintagefabrics.co.uk/fabric/ Now: http://www.ceconite.com/

Response:

Aircraft fabric ala Tiger Moth, Pitts Special, what’s it made of. Thanx.

originally aircraft fabric was grade A cotton doped in place, ribstitched for security then covered with a silver paint which was aluminium powder suspended in dope. a stronger natural fabric was Irish Linen which was also doped in place, rib stitched and finished in the silver paint. quite often the first layer of dope had a fungicide in it as well. in these natural finishes the entire tightness of the fabric is due to the shrinking of the dope. a more recent system is based on the original research of Ray Stits. he discovered that polyester fabric goes through a shrinking process after weaving. he found that unshrunk polyester fabric could be glued to a structure then manually shrunk to provide the necessary taughtness. Ceconite is a polyester fabric doped to the structure, ribstitched then painted in a silver dope. How the hell it works I dont know. Thats usually what a factory pitts uses. PolyFiber is the original Stits process. The unshrunk polyester fabric is glued in place shrunk, ribstitched and covered with a silver opaquing paint based on aluminium powder in vinyls. The opaquing in all cases is to prevent UV deterioration of the fabric. the two styles of process, natural and man made fibers, are different and cannot be safely mixed. you either use one method in its entirety or you use another. Steve Wittman made the mistake of doping on a polyester fabric and died. of the fabric finishes available PolyFiber is far and away the best system going. it is twice the strength of the natural fibers and when properly opaqued has almost unlimited life. there are other finishes like razorback (glass fiber cloth) that I havent mentioned and this is by no means an exhaustive description. Stealth Pilot

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Aircraft fabric ala Tiger Moth, Pitts Special, what’s it made of. Thanx. originally aircraft fabric was grade A cotton doped in place, ribstitched for security then covered with a silver paint which was aluminium powder suspended in dope. a stronger natural fabric was Irish Linen which was also doped in place, rib stitched and finished in the silver paint. quite often the first layer of dope had a fungicide in it as well. in these natural finishes the entire tightness of the fabric is due to the shrinking of the dope. a more recent system is based on the original research of Ray Stits. he discovered that polyester fabric goes through a shrinking process after weaving. he found that unshrunk polyester fabric could be glued to a structure then manually shrunk to provide the necessary taughtness. Ceconite is a polyester fabric doped to the structure, ribstitched then painted in a silver dope. How the hell it works I dont know. Thats usually what a factory pitts uses. PolyFiber is the original Stits process. The unshrunk polyester fabric is glued in place shrunk, ribstitched and covered with a silver opaquing paint based on aluminium powder in vinyls. The opaquing in all cases is to prevent UV deterioration of the fabric. the two styles of process, natural and man made fibers, are different and cannot be safely mixed. you either use one method in its entirety or you use another. Steve Wittman made the mistake of doping on a polyester fabric and died. of the fabric finishes available PolyFiber is far and away the best system going. it is twice the strength of the natural fibers and when properly opaqued has almost unlimited life. there are other finishes like razorback (glass fiber cloth) that I havent mentioned and this is by no means an exhaustive description. Stealth Pilot

Thanks for the information – things have changed since I owned an Auster! JD

Response:

New addition to the family(Elmo) OT

admin — Fri, 04 Mar 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

shawn send me a message to cactusjammies at hotmail dot calm no spaces, I will send you a pic of my fine stringed buddies. Cactus Jammies. My hotmail account has super no-intruder features. Spam does not get thru. You will be identifed by remote means when your armoured car gets near our fortifications. Pacific Black Cross sandwich corps ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Shawn" wrote in message

news:E8EWd.57176$EL5.22478@trnddc05… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Nice little stable ya got there bro!! > — > Shawn > (use the "reply feature on your browser to send a private reply via > E-Mail.) > "Russ" wrote in message > news:112hv41fg581a4d@corp.supernews.com… >> ahhh, day off, pay check and tax refund in the bank. Off to the music >> store >> for some new strings for the 6 string acoustic Ibanez and the 5 string. >> I’m down there and the dude is tuning up this Honer mandolin. I’ve never >> even touched one so I was interested about it and started talking to him. >> "Well" he says, "It’s got a crack in the top and I’m going to sell it >> real >> cheap." The crack is just in the finish, not the wood. I thought he said >> it >> listed for 3 or 400 bucks. So I have to play all the banjo’s in there >> first. >> Funny, the cheapest banjo, a Goldtone clawhammer style banjo for $250 >> sounded the best. He had a $900 one (I forgot the name), it felt like a >> 20lb >> sledge hammer and was so out of whack I would have had to take it apart >> and >> reset it. I didn’t like it anyway. >> So I ask him about the mandolin again, "I can sell it for $135, and the >> bag >> is $49 but I can sell it for $39" He adds. I keep plunking for a few >> minutes >> longer. >> mmmm, I ponder, $175……. it would be fun to own one…. I really like >> the bluegrass sound. >> I looked up, "I’ll give you $150 for the mandolin and the bag." He >> hesitated >> for about 3 seconds, shrugged his shoulders and said "Ok.". Cool… If >> you >> look just below the F hole on the left you can just see the crack in the >> pic. >> Now I have a mandolin, new strings for the Ibanez acoustic(bought that >> one >> in 1978, fits me like a glove and has a great sound) and the banjo (a >> Samick >> which isn’t too bad for a jap made one since I went through it and got it >> all straightened out, head tightened, ect). I need to get a geared tuner >> for >> the drone string, they were out of them. I also bought a drone string >> capo >> for the banjo. >> And then there is the LP. She still sounds great Elmo. For all of you not >> in >> the know, Elmo sent me the Ephiphone Les Paul and paid the $110 UPS bill >> up >> front all on trust last year while we were in the turmoil of treatment. I >> took one look at it and wrote him a check for the whole thing on the spot >> and sent it in the mail. >> It’s a nice day, the sun is out, it’s 44F and I am just having a great >> day. >> I got enough to do retuning and going through my players to last all >> weekend. >> Here is a pic of "my players". http://home.gci.net/~rtanner/players.jpg >> I feel good today!!!! >> — >> Russ >> Visit Alaska @ http://www.tannersacre.com

Response:

I wanna go I wanna go! Amtrak from Vancouver to San Diego, rent a car and head east. Next stop Integatron for a sonic bath with the Tibetan bowls. Then Joshua Tree National Park for an all nighter waiting for the dawn to paint the desert all those colours. And a little help from the Native American Spiritualist Church with the peyote buds would be copasetic, if I can get them. http://www.deserthideaway.com/active.html cactus Jammies "Russ" wrote It was the greenest I’ve every seen the Palm Spring area. They are forecasting the 500 year bloom this spring. The desert should be just spectacular with flowers. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > Russ > Visit Alaska @ http://www.tannersacre.com

Response:

Nice little stable ya got there bro!! — Shawn (use the "reply feature on your browser to send a private reply via E-Mail.) "Russ" wrote in message news:112hv41fg581a4d@corp.supernews.com… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ahhh, day off, pay check and tax refund in the bank. Off to the music > store > for some new strings for the 6 string acoustic Ibanez and the 5 string. > I’m down there and the dude is tuning up this Honer mandolin. I’ve never > even touched one so I was interested about it and started talking to him. > "Well" he says, "It’s got a crack in the top and I’m going to sell it real > cheap." The crack is just in the finish, not the wood. I thought he said > it > listed for 3 or 400 bucks. So I have to play all the banjo’s in there > first. > Funny, the cheapest banjo, a Goldtone clawhammer style banjo for $250 > sounded the best. He had a $900 one (I forgot the name), it felt like a > 20lb > sledge hammer and was so out of whack I would have had to take it apart > and > reset it. I didn’t like it anyway. > So I ask him about the mandolin again, "I can sell it for $135, and the > bag > is $49 but I can sell it for $39" He adds. I keep plunking for a few > minutes > longer. > mmmm, I ponder, $175……. it would be fun to own one…. I really like > the bluegrass sound. > I looked up, "I’ll give you $150 for the mandolin and the bag." He > hesitated > for about 3 seconds, shrugged his shoulders and said "Ok.". Cool… If > you > look just below the F hole on the left you can just see the crack in the > pic. > Now I have a mandolin, new strings for the Ibanez acoustic(bought that one > in 1978, fits me like a glove and has a great sound) and the banjo (a > Samick > which isn’t too bad for a jap made one since I went through it and got it > all straightened out, head tightened, ect). I need to get a geared tuner > for > the drone string, they were out of them. I also bought a drone string capo > for the banjo. > And then there is the LP. She still sounds great Elmo. For all of you not > in > the know, Elmo sent me the Ephiphone Les Paul and paid the $110 UPS bill > up > front all on trust last year while we were in the turmoil of treatment. I > took one look at it and wrote him a check for the whole thing on the spot > and sent it in the mail. > It’s a nice day, the sun is out, it’s 44F and I am just having a great > day. > I got enough to do retuning and going through my players to last all > weekend. > Here is a pic of "my players". http://home.gci.net/~rtanner/players.jpg > I feel good today!!!! > — > Russ > Visit Alaska @ http://www.tannersacre.com

Response:

I’m glad you like it. A bunch of talented kids. They played at the Talketna Bluegrass Fest (hour drive for me) last summer, my friend saw them and said they were amazing. The gal was clog dancing AND wailing on the fiddle!!!! I was sorry I missed it. I might have to go play hooky from work this year and check that out. I don’t watch much TV anymore. But tonight I watched a movie I rented, "The Punisher". It was a fun filled dick flick with lots of blood and gore.!!! hahaha…. Well take it easy, the TV was my friend on treatment. I watched a lot of movies, saw every episode of "Enterprise". Maybe that is why I’m not to into it this year. I watched enough last year for the next 2!! — Russ Visit Alaska @ http://www.tannersacre.com "pajaritaflora" wrote in message

news:1110067850.501993.42560@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Russ, > Thanks for the music. I like it, and can appreciate it’s uplifting > aspects. It’s a beautiful thing that you are able to pull yourself up > by the bootstraps and actually DO something you love and something that > helps lift your spirit. > I know alll to well the doldrums of sitting on the loveseat in front > of a tv, not being able to find anything interesting. My normal self > would pull out my paints and canvas and get it all out. Right now I > can’t seem to get that happening. I have been on low dose amytriptolene > for depression for a few years now. It normally works for me because it > doesn’t seem to kill the passion………..however, tx has changed > that, this week I started taking Lexapro, I’m hoping ad’s have come a > long way since prozac……… > Anyway, I’ve started a hand quilting project today, I can still sit on > the loveseat and maybe trick myself into enjoyment. You helped inspire > me. > I like your ideas about getting clean , I think it will allow your true > self to emerge. > Happy happy joy joy > Mary Ann

Response:

My brother lives in Olympia, he is always telling me how nice it is there, hahaha. Go figures the week I was there it was pissing about every day!!! I missed most of the rain in CA. My mom sent a picture of where they live, they couldn’t even get out of the place they live at, it was all flooded. It was the greenest I’ve every seen the Palm Spring area. They are forecasting the 500 year bloom this spring. The desert should be just spectacular with flowers. — Russ Visit Alaska @ http://www.tannersacre.com "Michael Arends" wrote in message

news:O7WdncYXtv4co7ffRVn-uw@giganews.com… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Smiling Wickedly, Russ answered: > > man I’ve really turned around this last week. Last week I was thinking black > > and foggy, today I’m all energetic and having a nice day. Funny how > > depression comes and goes. I don’t want to go on anti-d’s either. > > I went out and bought a new cd player for my truck, one that has ONE knob on > > it, just treble and bass, I don’t need a 1/2 inch thick manual to set the > > graphic equalizer up!!!!! Plus it plays mp3s!! And the sun be shining and > > it’s 46F outside, the snow and ice is a melting!!!! Man I’m glad for > > springtime. > Hey Russ, that Cold winter weather that comes down from your way, and > hits Seattle, skipped over us this year and went to Cal. And their > weather came to us. The last month and a half, to two months we’ve been > getting sun, almost NO Rain and between 55 – 65 F. > They’ve been getting nothing But RAIN!!!!!! oh and Tornadoes. > Of course they say it’s almost certain ALREADY we’ll have a water > shortage this summer. Just about NO snow in the mountains. AT ALL. > Nothing like sitting out on the Back deck, In the Sun, Patio Umbrella > up, it’s 71F on my deck in the sun, laptop out, Big tall Glass of Coke > and Lime, and about oh…. 1/2 OZ. of Thunderfuck, and my Favorite > Bong. Boooooooooooooooooong! Heheehe .. TOOT TOOT… > — > *..

Cats & Ironing Boards do NOT Mix ;)

admin — Mon, 28 Feb 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

[[Probably part of the reason of my utter dislike of the chore is that my time and *insisted* that they were ironed and starched to perfection before they were put away in the wardrobe, and then *insisted* that they needed to be ironed again when they came back out. ]] After having read this story, I have two things to say. 1) I’m VERY glad he’s an EX. 2) You’d have been within your rights, had you inserted that iron into either the start point or the end point of his digestive tract. But take heart… if he continues behaving the way he did in the past, someone may bestow that treatment on him yet. (He’s gotta sleep SOMEtime.

Response:

Tell Persia to not fear, her dear Weebs was in the other room, and went running *to* the clatter to see what had happened. He stopped short of the kitchen when the three culprits exploded out through the door all puffed up. were moving to fast for me to see their faces – all I could see were three rear ends and three *very* puffy stripey-tails LOL LOL! Oh, I miss having kittens around.

I could send you notsoIBKFergus if you like That hooliketten has absolutely no shame or dignity wahtsoever,and is *obsessed* with my dishwashing sponges and one of Cary’s socks. Bizarre creature. Yowie

Response:

The best use for an ironing board is to use it outside as a potting bench.The top is usually mesh, so excess potting mix falls through, and as the thing is adjustable, it can be set at a comfortable height. Just the thing for gardeners ! Marie from OZ

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What is this "ironing board" of which you speak? When ‘ironing’ or ‘pressing’ clothes to remove wrinkles, most of the US American folk use an ironing board in conjunction with the ‘iron’ or perhaps ‘flatiron’, though that is an archaic term here. Yowie has a "thing" about liberation from ironing. Hehehee.

Response:

[[What is this "ironing board" of which you speak? Yowie]] It’s a cat-attracting device which felines appear to regard as a plaything, a bed (see: Misty, RB), a punching bag (see: Captain) and/or a high-diving platform.

OR a pedestal for artistic poses. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Unfortunately, it’s not normally stable enough to maintain balance when a cat makes an especially vigorous leap up or down. This can result in a resounding crash of the ironing board, and possibly the garment and iron upon it, as everything falls to the floor. We humans keep hoping that at least ONE kitty who’s precipitated, or witnessed, this sort of mishap will send a communique to the Mothership, stating that ironing boards are best left alone by felines of all sizes and ages. But unfortunately, they never seem to get the word out, meaning that most cats must learn this lesson independently. Therefore, we feline-owned humans are destined to experience the occasional crash of unattended ironing boards to the floor. It’s our lot in life, and we must resign ourselves to it. ;o) Donna and the ironing-board attacking committee known as Captain and Stanley

Theresa Stinky Pictures: http://community.webshots.com/album/125591586JWEFwh My Blog: http://www.humanitas.blogspot.com

Response:

to say about Re: Cats & Ironing Boards do NOT Mix : My ironing board hangs from the bedroom closet door. I just flip it down and it hangs there off the floor ready to be used. Since Persia isn’t a "jumper" she doesn’t even notice it. I recommend this type of board for anyone with limited storage space.

My apartment includes one that folds into a little niche in the wall (with door). — "The universe is quite robust in design and appears to be doing just fine on its own, incompetent support staff notwithstanding. " – the Dennis formerly known as (evil), MCFL

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – On 2005-02-28, Magic Mood Jeep

Customs duties, fees

admin — Mon, 28 Feb 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

It’s coming by Purolator. (A new one on me – I thought they did filters!)

Purolator is the largest courier company in Canada — about 55% of the market last I checked (they used to have 85% — "purolator" used to be the verb for overnight shipping the way "fedex" is today). A few years backed they were purchased by Canada Post. I believe that their partner for delivery in the US is EMS. In any case, it is my understanding that US Customs does not take an interest in shipments worth less than $200 from Canada to the US. There seem to be some exceptions to this (e.g. textiles) but I don’t think this is one of them. —-== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups —-= East and West-Coast Server Farms – Total Privacy via Encryption =—-

Response:

I won an auction for a lot of 3 DSL modems from a place in Canada. Price was $329 + $25 shipping. In the auction terms there was a notice that "Buyer pays any Customs duties or broker fees as well as any applicable taxes". Other than just waiting to see what this amounts to, is there any place I can look up information on this? It’s coming from Alberta and I’m in Iowa. — – Being "over the hill" is much better than being under it! —

Response:

Depends how they refer to it, gift or computer item. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I won an auction for a lot of 3 DSL modems from a place in Canada. Price was $329 + $25 shipping. In the auction terms there was a notice that "Buyer pays any Customs duties or broker fees as well as any applicable taxes". Other than just waiting to see what this amounts to, is there any place I can look up information on this? It’s coming from Alberta and I’m in Iowa.

Response:

Duties depend on country of origin. Broker fees depend on the broker/carrier. Modems are free of duty entering the US and Canada (unless they are made in the naughtiest of countries, and this is certainly not the case) under harmonized code 8517.50.10.00. If it’s sent by mail you won’t pay anything. See USITC Publication 3745. Best regards, Spehro Pefhany — "it’s the network…" "The Journey is the reward" Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I won an auction for a lot of 3 DSL modems from a place in Canada. Price was $329 + $25 shipping. In the auction terms there was a notice that "Buyer pays any Customs duties or broker fees as well as any applicable taxes". Other than just waiting to see what this amounts to, is there any place I can look up information on this? It’s coming from Alberta and I’m in Iowa. Duties depend on country of origin. Broker fees depend on the broker/carrier. Modems are free of duty entering the US and Canada (unless they are made in the naughtiest of countries, and this is certainly not the case) under harmonized code 8517.50.10.00. If it’s sent by mail you won’t pay anything.

It’s coming by Purolator. (A new one on me – I thought they did filters!) See USITC Publication 3745.

Thanks for the reply. It doesn’t look like it’ll amount to anything. — – Being "over the hill" is much better than being under it! —

Response:

ADV-NEWS, Vinyl Record Plant Closing.

admin — Fri, 04 Feb 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Vinyl Record Plant Closing Last Update: 2/4/2005 11:38:17 AM GLOVERSVILLE, N.Y. (AP) – Universal Music is closing its vinyl record plant here, cutting 112 jobs. Company spokesman Peter Lofrumento declined to discuss the reasons behind the closure. Workers at the plant, which opened in 1964, are responsible for pressing records, printing labels and jackets and shipping product. Universal’s records will be pressed by a third party in the future, Lofrumento said. The first wave of job cuts is scheduled for April 8. The factory will shut down on May 6. "While decisions like these are difficult to make and are not undertaken lightly, they are necessary to meet the many new challenges brought about as the industry continues to rapidly evolve," Lofrumento said. Members of Local 348 of the Union of Needle Trades, Industrial and Textile Employees-Hotel Employees and Restaurant Employees learned of the plant shutdown on Thursday. Union district manager Robert Bruse said union and management officials would meet to iron out details about employees’ benefits. Gloversville is 38 miles northwest of Albany.

Response:

Two Killed in Fight Outside Pool Hall Two people were killed and four others were wounded after a fight started at a pool hall and ended in gunfire, authorities said. Jimmy Wetch, owner of Jimmy’s Pro Billiards on Central Avenue, said at least 20 people came in and started fighting with another group of people after 10 p.m. Thursday. He said balls and cue sticks were thrown and the fight spilled outside. Capt. Robert Aldrich, a spokesman for the Anoka County Sheriff’s Department, said two people died in the incident. Their bodies were found behind the pool hall. Allen Olson, who was playing pool at the time, said he saw two groups of people begin arguing. Pool hall employees told them to go outside. "We heard a sound like whoosh," he told the Star Tribune of Minneapolis. "We thought it was glass breaking. But it was gunshots." Olson said he ran outside. "These three guys were standing with guns pulled," he said. He saw one man fall. Two others got in a car and left, he said. At least three of the wounded were taken to Hennepin County Medical Center in Minneapolis. Their conditions were not immediately known. Six people were detained for questioning, but there had been no arrests by midmorning Friday, Aldrich said. He said it appeared a group of Hmong who were at least affiliated with a gang quarreled with a group of people of Tibetan ancestry. Earlier reports said the Tibetans were part of a gang, but Aldrich said further investigation showed they weren’t. "It’s possible they were perceived as a gang by the Hmong contingent in the billiard parlor," he said. He said there was a small, close-knit Tibetan community in the area but there was scant evidence that its members were in engaged in the sort of ongoing criminal activity that would make police consider them a gang. Ron Ryan, commander of the Minnesota Gang Strike Force, said some officers from his group were assisting the investigation. While at least one of the Hmong involved was known to the strike force, he doubted the Tibetans were part of a gang. "He have no documented Tibetan people in our system" of gang members, he said. Last Updated: 2/4/2005 1:51:26 PM